944. DISHNetwork technician 2nd Hopper + Kudos

I had a technician come out to resolve some Hopper-1 pixelization (?) and freeze problems since its install. This is the 2nd Hopper receiver since January when it replaced a Vip722 receiver which work working without problems. The first Hopper was faulty and did reboots when it felt like doing it! Plusr it had performance problems displaying guide and scrolling through it. I had already replace the SNAP Device which is supposed to help the performance of graphical interfaces, such as the guide, and Joey connections which I have none.

Back to this Hopper installation problem. The problem according to the technicians happen because of cable and connection issues. They replaced all the cable outside from satellite disch to cable running into house and tested the cable as best they could. The inside wiring had a splitter on it that led to the TV and previous connected TV using the Vip722 receiver. They replaced that. Then by the TV they attempted to replace cable and connections to receiver. They did get it all working and concluded that it was all fixed. 5 minutes after leaving I moved the TV back a little and signal was lost. Apparently just moving the cable out of the wall caused the signal loss issue. I retested that theory several time and sure enough every time I moved the cable the signal was lost.

Thus, I am on their schedule for tomorrow again.
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2/27/20 Update: Success. I knew the cable could not be fixed because it was now too short after their cutting to remove nicks. So, I cut a new wall opening 36" away and pulled the cable from the old hole to the new one. The technicians today checked the new length and found the damage, spliced new connections, and installed the wall cover. I then had to patch the reminder of the opening, but now it is complete except for repainting it. Finally! I hope this is last problem I have with the Hopper installs. DishNetwork gave me a case manager to ensure all problems are fixed too. I think I'm in business again.
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Update 3/2/2020 Update: There was only one outstanding problem and that was the OTA picture/sound disruption. To debug that further Dish Case manager and I decided that I should hook up antenna directly to TV and note differences. I did this by digging out an old antenna splitter (NOT a DISH splitter -- won't work), attached to attena cable out of wall and connected the splits to OTA Adapter on DISH receiver and the other directly to TV. Given 95%+ strength in the signal, the TV worked perfectly for the last 3 days.. I even recorded 2 hours of my  FOX OTA  station while I watched the same basketball game on the TV direct connect. Surprisingly, BOTH were perfect! I have not seen any disruptions on DISH OTA since installing the antenna splitter in front of the OTA adapter. Why it now works perfectly? I can only guess that the cable connected to the OTA was the original cable from the antenna and now is a new cable off the splitter. Unless the added resistance of the splitter figures in. I don't think I'll worry about it and want to thank DISH support and the Case Manager for their continuous support and interest. I've now been with DISH for 25 years and can't say a thing bad about them. They did a lot of work updating my cables and satellite dishes to upgrade my receiver from an old Vip722 to Hopper-1 at no cost to me other than having to buy an Internet adapter to get On Demand which I didn't have on old receiver. I highly recommend DISHNetwork. Kudos for DishNetwork and their Technical Support.

943. Suddenlink EZ PAY Bypass Fix

Both posts 942 and 919 document problems with Suddenlink's EZ Pay code failing. If you look at post 919 you will notice that this problem existed since their conversion to a new billing system and since at least November 9, 2019 when I first reported it. It is STILL NOT FIXED.

Problem: It is NOT possible to set up EZ Pay and/or UPDATE EZ Pay via the following browsers: Chrome on Windows 10, Edge on Windows 10, Internet Explorer on Windows 10, Silk on Amazon Kindles Android O/S. Worse yet is that NO Customer Rep via phone, CHAT, or in person at the local store can resolve this issue and, obviously, the software programmers also cannot or the problem was never reported to them! Pitiful! I rand into this problem again yesterday, 2/23/20, as reported in post 942. The reason did is because Suddenlink send me an email that they will not be able to process my Auto Pay (EZ Pay) in March because they increased prices and the amount now exceeds the maximum limit I set. Well, they set it back in November when I had forced them to set it up via their system again! The email stated that I would have to go to My Account/Autopayents and change the "Maximum Setting". This would require doing an Update EZ Pay. But when I went there I received an error and told to call them! Don't waste your time! Instead do the following:

Bypass Fix: Download the Suddenlink Support App from Google Play Store. It will allow you to set up Auto Pay via EZ Pay AND allow you to Update and see the Maximum Setting as in the email. Everything is handled by THEIR mobile app that no Suddenlink Curstomer Rep has yet discovered!

Now I have to fix their billing statement for them that they again changed starting with this billing cycle!

942. My "favorite" Company screwed me AGAIN! SUDDENLINK!

Suddenlink has to be the worst company I have ever dealt with. Now they send me an email to me know that they cannot process my next payment via Automatic EZ Pay because I have my maximum settings set too low! They include instructions to change it: Go to Account, Auto Payments, Update EZ Pay and change the setting. Well, of course that didn't work! As if I didn't already know that would not work! You see, when I tried to set it up it didn't work then and someone from Suddenlink after at least five run-arounds finally set it up successfully. Thing is, this person must have also set up the maximum settings SOMEHOW. I have spoken to a rep 3-5 times already today. Each time she came back to ask me to try again. Like some miracle was going to happen to fix it. And again, I restated that the CODE is broken and doesn't offer me a place to change the settings and worse tells me there is an error in EZ Pay to go back to Manage Your Payments. Well, I finally did go to that and removed my old CC I used and added a new one. SAME PROBLEM! Update EZ PAY is BROKEN!

Of course Suddenlink doe NOT provide an email address, so you have no choice other that call. Then the crutch answer from the reps (this one included) is to run down to the local building to get it fixed. But when you do that, they scratch their heads because they can't do it either! What a losing company! Please AT&T get your Fiber down my street! I'll pay double just to get rid of Suddenlink!

Thing is, I originally called them because they changed their bill again and it isn't even correct. They decided to split out Internet from Phone and the new format still INCLUDED both in one section and then Internet again in another place. I tried to get confirmation on what Internet Speed I was supposed to be getting and its price and the Rep instead knocked down My Internet and the phone I was talking on! So useless. Finally when I was back up and she apologized for doing that, I was not able to discuss my bill because she had no information and I need to wait until a weekday.

Internet prices were jacked up this month I think (could never confirm with Rep) about $10-15 per month. I suppose when you are a MONOPOLY you can charge anything!

941."Some Days are Dark" by Miranda Smith – 3 Stars

Some Days are Dark   by Miranda Smith – 3 Stars

Publisher: Bookouture

ISBN: 9781838882198 

I struggled to keep reading this book until the last 25% when the action picked up and there was a surprising conclusion. I realize that the story needed information about Olivia’s life, however, I was annoyed with her poor-me attitude, excuses and naively bad choices. The mystery got lost in the overly long telling of her issues of being an unhappy wife, sharing custody of her young child and battling drug and alcohol abuse. Mostly she made her own problems.

I put this book aside several times to read something else. I came back to it because the author’s writing was strong and readable and I was curious to discover the conclusion. I would have enjoyed it if the focus had been more on the mystery and less on Olivia’s woeful life.

Reviewer: Nancy

 

940. "A Reasonable Doubt" by Phillip Margolin – 5 Stars

A Reasonable Doubt by Phillip Margolin  – 5 Stars

Publisher: St. Martin’s Press

ISBN: 9781250117540 

 

A magician who disappears when he debuts a new illusion is a description that grabbed my attention. It has a unique twist. Robert Lockwood, the missing illusionist, is certainly an unlikeable man with a dark past. He is a womanizer, cheat, thief and maybe even a murderer. There are many people who have reason to hate him.

The story has a steady pace. There are lawyers and legal maneuvering but no lengthy trial proceedings to slow the plot down. It is a tangled web and fun to read.

Reviewer: Nancy

939. Puzzled re Contempt of Senate Proceedings

I'm puzzled why Senators can openly lie on the Senate floor or before any Senate managed function without some kind of penalty. Isn't this Contempt = willful disobedience to or open disrespect for the rules or orders of a court (contempt of court) or legislative body. They take an oath to  truthful and to support the Constitution don't they? Yet Independent organizations, such as Politico, call their lies and nothing is ever done to correct them. So, as we have seen with the Impeachment Trials and almost all Dem initiated witch hunts, the Dem continue to lie to Congress to make their false cases. I really think someone in the legal areas of the government, such as the Department of Justice or the Supreme Court Court member selected to oversee the Impeachment trial, should prosecute these liars. It's challenging enough to understand everything being said let alone extracting facts. We the People know the facts re the Impeachment. Some just don't care about the lies and just want to proceed removing our President based on their inability to get over 2016 and the fact that the Dem Party is imploding each time they bring up these false accusations. I'm not a Dem, but it would be a shame if they destroy the Separation of Powers and continue to close their eyes to reality and facts. I'm tired of results BY PARTY LINE! Can't individual members think for themselves? I value the multiple-party system to balance the views of all America. But, I am getting real tired of the Dems misleading their contingency and sucking up the youngster "adults" who in the most part are clueless on most of the facts and simply don't care -- they just want to rebel as teenagers always do! Where are the parents who allow their children to be brought up that way? Are they also so indoctrinated with wrongdoing and lack of common sense also. I wish I could say let America be Socialist to tech them a lesson that that are too ignorant to learn by past attempts and present examples. Let's let everybody live for FREE (except, you and I who have to pay the taxes for the youngsters until they grow up and get to really suffer financial chaos as an adult). 

Thanks Dems for SEPARATING this Great Country. I can even suspect that the youngsters and a lot of people believe the Democratic Party stands for Democracy and any other party does not. I doubt they know that America is a Republic and our Republic and Democracy is the set of policies defined by the Constitution and Bill of Rights that rule America despite the political party name. The exception is Bernie Sanders and his followers who are out to upset Democracy and Capitalism with idiotic dreams that youngsters BELIEVE! I sometimes wonder whether every voter should pass a course on Democracy, Capitalism, and what a Republic is BEFORE they can vote! Just can't believe We the People are sitting here without correcting the inevitable catastrophes in the future. 

I guess I got off the topic a little. But the match on the gasoline spread by the Dems these last 3+ years has already been lit.

938. Hopper 1 USB setup

I upgraded an older Dish receiver to the Hopper 1 (first generation) assuming the 2 USB ports on the back were enough for an OTA (Over-the-Air Antenna), and Internet Connection (to give be On Demand). However, when installed the installer put some device into the top USB port that he claimed was to reduce noise and interference. Well that was wrong. It was a Snap Device from Dish to accelerate performance. The Snap Device is a micro processor + Memory add-on functioning with the Hopper via the TOP (must be) USB port. I also learned that the OTA must also be directly connected to the Hopper to its own USB port, i.e., not a separate USB splitter). Thus both top and bottom USB ports on the back of the hopper we filled leaving no place to plug in the Dish Wi-Fi Adapter for Internet connection (on demand function and other things). I was surprised to find a third USB port on the front of the Hopper box! This worked fine for the Wi-Fi Adapter. Voil

Summarizing:
The Hopper 1 comes with 3 USB ports (2 on back, 1 on front) but the top back port MUST be SNAP Device. OTA Adapter needs a direct USB connection (BOTTOM Back port). Use the front USB port for Internet Wireless Wi-FI (or use an Ethernet port to cable to router).

.

937. Thank You Microsoft for version 1909

Microsoft has been doing a stellar job with its new version installations.  I was surprised that they do NOT automatically force you to update to new version until near your level end support date (May 2020 in my case). I had version 1809 and today put on version 1909 without a glitch. Took about 3 hours and 20 minutes on this old Dell Inspiron 1440. Thing is, ALL installed programs were transferred transparently except, again, the old Microsoft Windows 7 games. I have posted previously how to install them, but this time I ensured I had a backup of the card game .exe files (...exe,bak) in each game folder under folder Micorsoft games. I needed only to copy it and rename it just ....exe and each game was active except for chess which needed "chess.dll" in the chess game folder. The install saved all old folders and files in  its "windows.old" folder folder and copying it to the active chess game folder was a no brainer.

Kudos to Microsoft for a great installation experience.

May I add that I am still using Office 2003 after the upgrade. But if you visit Post 906 here re installation where it was not preinstalled on my new Lenovo, you will see that I could no longer install it on that version 1903 system and had to get a new version (also documented in the post). I was afraid I'd have to do that again, but no, the upgrade did everything with the older programs.

936 "Prince of Spies" by Alex Gerlis – 5 Stars

Prince of Spies by Alex Gerlis – 5 Stars

Publisher: Canelo

ISBN: 9781788638722

Captivating! I was surprised by the content in this book given it was in the Spies category. I was expecting just action after action with just high intensity events and an already seasoned super-hero agent as in so many other spy books. But instead was given a well-constructed and complete story: how during WW II Richard Prince was recruited, quickly trained for am emanate mission, constant situations that highlighted the high risk and precautionary steps needed, the loneliness and despair in his and other agent’s lives, the addiction to the spy game, the intelligence and secretiveness within the spy organizations internally as well as externally, and so much more. All this with the realistic background and history of WW II, mainly focused in the Germany and Denmark arenas. Did I mention the building and actions to stop the construction of the German missiles and rockets? Or the extreme sacrifices some of the agents encountered?

Follow the main character Richard Prince from his detective days through his development into a top British Agent and his adventures to uncover the reality of German plans of destruction and menace, particularly the German actions in Denmark. This is a complete story that grips you and places you in Prince’s shoes. Extremely well done! I’m already standing in line for Book 2.

 Reviewer: Rich

 

935. "Charleston Buzz" Kill by Tom Turner – 5 Stars

Charleston Buzz Kill by Tom Turner – 5 Stars

Publisher: Tribeca Press

ISBN: 9781670793072

This is an intelligent mystery with a light side. The plot doesn’t slow. Characters are interesting, realistic and often quirky. The dialogue, especially between the lead detectives, is bright and witty. It pokes fun at the rich and pretentious citizens of Charleston without being nasty. This is the second book in the Charleston series and like the Palm Beach series by Tom Turner, is absolutely enjoyable.

Reviewer: Nancy

 

934. "Nine Lives by" Tom Barber – 2 Stars

Nine Lives by Tom Barber – 2 Stars

Publisher: BooksGoSocial

ISBN: 9781478172895

Sam Archer. Who would have guessed that Sam was the key character and foundation for the Series? Neither he nor other main characters were ever developed fully to capture your interest. Plus, with a story that read like a series of headlines, that is, event after event, all similar with same expected outcomes, and nothing around them, the result was undoubtedly a very bland novel. If you were looking for “just the facts ‘Mam”  repeated again and again, you got it. Yes, one could call this intense, but, no, one did not get a story.

This was a free book to review from Netgalley.com. Thus, I expected a copy with incomplete editing. However, this was terrible. There must have been 50+ errors where words were split or run together with other words per page. One’s mind adapts to this and reading continued on regardless. Thus, editing was not considered in the rating.

Much of the story was unrealistic and implausible. Some would view this as a requirement for intensity. For me it became a deterrent to continue. I struggled to about 50% before I began to read one sentence per page with my eyes focused on the middle of the page. Didn’t miss a thing! At 80% I gave up and could care less how it ended.

I don’t know whether this was just the first in a Series or the author’s first ever. I’m leaning toward the latter and had no interest to even look it up. Sorry, let it suffice to state that I found this novel a flop.

Reviewer: Rich

 

933. "The Heartless" by David Putnam -- 5 Stars

The Heartless by David Putnam  -- 5 Stars

Publisher: Oceanview Publishing

ISBN: 9781608093786

It is exciting to find a thriller with a great plot, well developed characters and plenty of action. The Heartless has all of these.

Bruno Johnson, the central character, does battle in the dangerous streets of Los Angeles while struggling with personal conflicts. He tries to do the right things as he juggles the responsibilities of being the single parent of an intelligent rebellious teenage daughter and working long hours as a member of an elite law enforcement unit.

The action is intense throughout the book. It never slows.

Best of all, the plot is believable. It is obvious the David Putnam knows what he is writing about. He spent years working in areas of law enforcement. Don’t miss the author’s note at the end of the story.

 I have read very many police-based novels over the years and The Heartless is among the best. This book can be enjoyed without having read the first six in the series, but I am anxious to start from the beginning. I have already purchased the first book. 

Reviewer: Nancy

 

932. Stop annoying Malwarebytes popups

Finally found a way to stop the annoying Malwarebytes popups that want you to move on to Premium license. Do the following:

1. Bring up File Explorer
2. Start with C: and ensure your View shows hidden files
3. Traverse to Progamdata > Malwarebytes > MBAMService
4. Now locate Instlrupdate folder and delete it
5. That's all folks

931. "Not Dead" by Anita Dickason – 4 Stars

Not Dead by Anita Dickason  –  4 Stars

Publisher: Mystic Circle Books

ISBN: 9780996838597  

Not Dead is a paranormal crime thriller with a lot of romance. Much of it is a police procedural to find an abducted four-year-old little girl who has a passion for dolls.

It is obvious that the sheriff and editor of the local newspaper in a small Texas town will become romantically involved as soon as they are introduced. Much of the plot centers upon their often-adversarial relationship.

There are occasional hints of paranormal activity throughout, but the spooky stuff isn’t revealed until the final 20% of the story.

Overall it was nice and a little eerie. By nice I mean there wasn’t any graphic violence, steamy sex or nasty language. It didn’t keep me up all night but the characters and plot kept me reading to find out if Mandy got home safely and how the dolls were involved in the investigation.

Reviewer: Nancy

 

930. Nameless Series of books by Dean Koontz -- 4.5 Stars

Dean Koontz wrote a series of books (Nameless Series) based on a character you somehow lost his memory of the past but received enhanced powers, such as seeing beforehand what will happen. This character takes on the responsibilities to right catastrophes before they happen and punish the intended perpetrators. All six of the books -- (1) In the Heat of the Fire, (2) Photographing the Dead, (3) The Praying Mantis, (4) Red Rain, (5) The Mercy of Snakes, (6) Memories of Tomorrow -- were very good and can be read independently of the others and in any order. However, reading them all at once was less satisfying and I started to skim the latter books because of the similar structure and themes. So, what started out as a 5 Star dragged to a 4 Star. Overall, I give the series a 4.5 Star. Koontz is always creative and the theme was indeed that; but, short novelettes should not have been the way to release these. Each plot is unique in itself and very entertaining. Enjoy.

929. Low Volume on Dell Inspiron 1440

Tired of not being able to amply hear videos, audio on your Dell Inspiron? Apparently from other articles I found, Dell limited their default volume for its speakers on these models. Try the following to get satisfactory sound -- might even have to turn the volume down:

Instructions for a Windows 10 environment:

Left-click Sound ICON
Select Sound Settings
Select Device Properties for Sound
Select Additional Device Properties
Select Enhancements tab
Check the Loudness Equalization option and uncheck others
Click OK

Now you should have sound you can hear!

928. Miracast (Mirroring) Lenovo to Amazon FireTV

CORRECTION: Below shows how to use Miracast, but I recently discovered that Amazon Prime Showtime subscription DOES allow you to get to Showtime Beyond, Extreme and all other Showtime channels. Instead of selecting Showtime Anytime on your FireTV, use Alexa and say Showtime Beyond or whatever to view current live program.

Over the holidays we decided to reduce our TV expenses by replacing Showtime on DISH with Showtime on Amazaon Prime using FrieTV adapter. Here are the things you need to know:

1. Amazon's $5.99/mo offer (3 months, then $19.99) gives you Showtime Anytime, but I have yet to find any Showtime channels other than East and West via the FireTV Prime access. It DOES set up Showtime Anytime though. So, you can use the Amazon Prime setup ID from any device to get to Showtime programming. From a PC, my Lenovo in my case, I can not only get East and West, but ALL Showtime channels, such as Beyond, Next, etc. To get thsoe channels displayed on my TV requires a different process than simply bringing up Showtime Anutime on the FireTV. It will require you to use mirroring of your PC via Miracast and thus the following instructions.

2. These instruction are for Windows 10: Does your PC have and support Miracast. Go to this You Tube Video for directions on how to check you PC for Miracast support.  If it does, continue.

3. Now that you have both a FireTV adapter in your HDMI port and Miracast on your PC, set up you PC to recognize your FireTV. You may find out that it is already set up and just not activated (step 4). Go to START -> Settings -> Devices. Form there on my PC there is an option to go to Bluetooth and Other Devices. Do so. After that, I found a section called Wireless Displays and Docks where my FireTV was already displayed. Actually, I found two and still couldn't use them (didn't know how yet), so I Removed them both and set up new one by ADDING a device. As long as both FIreTV and your PC are connected to WiFi they will do their job upon Adding. Now you have FIRETV listed under Wireless Displays and Docks,

4. Activate and use Miracast-FireTV connection:
    a) On FireTV: Bring up Amazon Prime FireTV. Now HOLD the Home button on your remote (top middle button). Up comes some ICONs, one of which is MIRRORING. Select it and you will get a screen that tells you it is activated for the FireTV and will wait for PC now (next step)

   b) On your PC: Left-click on Action Center ICON on far right bottom of screen. Up pops options and you will need CONNECT. If you don't see it, look for Expand at bottom and click it to expand the shown options to all options. Now left-click CONNECT. Up comes your PC screen on your FireTV. You are done.

We keep our channels on DISH displayed to see what is playing, but you will need to get up the schedule on you PC so you can select what you want. Talking about LIVE TV schedule. Click on this Showtime Channel Guide to see Showtimes TV programs. Now simply click on the one of your choice and watch it on FIreTV. You need only select FULL Screen mode to get rid of Window frames. Even the top message re disconnecting can be removed from the screen if desired. To disconnect when done, go again to Action Center.

927. "We Are Monsters" by Brian Kirk – 3.5 Stars

We Are Monsters by Brian Kirk – 3.5 Stars

Publisher: Flame Tree Press

ISBN: 9781787583795

I thought I had a great story for the first 70%: well written, interesting, entertaining, and logical. I enjoyed the characters, relationships, and unique behaviors, challenges, and future plans. A new and total cure for schizophrenia raised my antenna for intriguing possibilities and, since this was under the Horror Category, some weird and scary events. I wasn’t wrong, and the horror did come about 55% into the story like falling off a cliff. The story changed from a mystery about who killed someone to a deeply psychotic world surrounding the insane and the staff caring for them. The murder is explained as an effect of the new drug use, but is the patient the only one involved? I was locked in for the next 15% of the book consuming brilliant fantasies and a crescendo of horror. Up to this point my rating would have been around 4.5.

However, too much of one thing, especially when is no longer new and refreshing, becomes stale and boring. I tired of reading trivial nonsense over and over again and rushed past the stuff to get to the end. I must say the book gives you an eerie feeling that the sane are the ones not in touch with the world and the insane are. I think I got the message. But I already got it 70% in and didn’t need it diminished by extraneous writing. I’d be hard pressed to rate the last 30% more than 2.5.

I see the author has another novel that I’ll probably look into and see if he learned from the reviews of this book. As I stated, his potential is promising and the horror category is my carrot. But, overall, I can only rate this one a 3.5 star.

Reviewer: Rich

 

926. Dell Battery Saga

I first bought my Dell Inspiron 1440 in 2010. Yeah, it's old and this year became my wife's PC. It is so old Windows 10 was not yet supported and never did get supported, But, it has been running Windows 10 since it came out. That's the positive news for those with this old model from Dell.

Since day 1 this PC had a problem in that periodically I would notice, not exactly frequently, that the Power Icon was reporting that the battery was NOT charging and it's capacity was less than 100%. I NEVER used it on battery then. The fix, or circumvention was to simply unplug it a plug it back in and it started charging again. I got tired of constantly monitoring this around 2017 and removed the battery entirely. All went well until now when y wife wanted to use it in a warmer room (ha-ha). Thus, we decided to use it on battery and charge occasionally like everything else these days. Thus, comes the problem below:

Although it was charge to 100%, it discharged to about 67% then plummeted in a minute or less to 4%! Whoa...bad battery symptom. Tried again charging it and it progressed with charging until about last expected time of 1 hr and 27 minutes left and at around 71 % when it jumped right to 100%. Okay, let's run on it now. Same problem as before. Ran for about 10 minutes before 4% again when critical action shut the PC down. I ordered a new battery.

New battery came at about 65% charge. I drained it (battery used) until it got to 2% as recommended, but its discharge and recharge took on the same behavior as before on the old battery. I found a lot of information on the internet about other possible reasons and actually tried some without any change. Then decided to discharge again and recharge. This time it gradually went down, I kept changing the Power settings to capture the LOW, Reserve, and Critical conditions. It discharged correctly. I reset Power Settings to normal settings and recharged. This time it gradually did its job correctly. I can only conclude as I read on some articles that this discharge/charge cycle should be done about 5 times to condition the battery correctly. I believe the problem is fixed now. I wonder if old battery is really bad though or if I need to do the 5 times thing with it too since I had it stored in a drawer? For the $14.28 it cost me for the new one, I just keep the old one around in a drawer again and try later if I ever need to. Sure is nice now to use as a laptop again. Wife like me more too.

925. GE Refrigerator Noise Part III (LIVE WITH IT!) with 9/22/20 UPDATE

Previous posts re the GE Refrigerator noise are:
   911. GE Refrigerator/Freezer Noise Part I
   920. GE Refrigerator/Freezer Noise Part II: Post 911 Continuance

Noise:
  Within Fridge after cooling begins
  20 feet away after cooling stops
  20 feet away after cooling starts
  All noise Sound Bites in Dropbox

My previous chat with GE and Engineering follows and precedes the Service call today Friday, 12/6//2019. This is an email to GE responding to the engineer's comments:

a) I think we can all agree with the engineer that the noise is NOT normal as he/she notes.

b) As far as damper being the problem, the noise does occurs when invoked by the service person approximately 7-10 seconds after performing the service function. This is only what I can report. Whether the 7-10 seconds after the function is invoked qualifies as "when the damper is activated" I do not know.

c) The comment that the damper cannot be the noise during the 3-4 hour inactive time makes complete sense to me, but the service person claims the damper is constantly servicing the air exchange even during the inactive time which differs from the engineer's comment that it should "seldom" occur.
d) The constant expansion /contraction of gases as per your engineer's comments and the possibility the noise is related to that fits the card in that the noise does occur constantly between 7 and 11 times each hour. He had GE send mastic to essentially stop a vibration caused by the constant start/stop of refrigerant movement and expansion. This needs to be examined.
e) His question as to whether the noise sound bites come from the Freezer section I will answer that the specific area of the noise according to the service person is behind the bottom refrigerator drawers (fruit & vegetables) where the refrigerator air tower & damper reside. The recorder was located multiple places when the sound bites were recorded, all outside some on the floor at left side, some at middle right while on a counter, some on left and middle top. I personally did not explore specifically where the noise was occurring.
f) The engineer comment "When a gas noise is confirmed, this is not directly related to the damper, unless the damper was kept open for a LONG time (forced) so the balance between refrigerator and freezer is broken, so the sealed system is forced to work harder to keep the balance." confuses me more and concerns me. The pattern of knocks (1/2/3) in each grouping sort of indicates that the noise is not a simple door opening (i.e., an occurrence of 1) or closing (occurrence of 1). Patterns of 2 or 3 8-10 knocks separated by 7-10 seconds to me indicated that some RETRY of a failed function is being done. His comment that a damper noise "should seldom occur" during an inactive 3-4 hour period and then his last comment in quotes above could mean an unbalance between the refrigerator and freezer when a damper is kept open for a LONG time (forced) could point to multiple problems.

I can only assume the noise is NOT normal and if it cannot be fixed we would request a replacement. With all the different possibilities I can only hope a service person has all the tools and the refrigerator has all the service functions to diagnose the issue. We remain with a lot of questions and no real solutions at this point. Maybe after this Friday we can better address some of your engineer's comments.

-------------------------------------

Also needed to be noted is that two parts sent by GE were NOT compatible with my model. One was the Air Tower Assembly for which pictures were provided in the 920 post.
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Update 12/6/2019: I highly recommend Samsson Appliance Repair, 806-665-0100 (Jerry & Catherine Noordenbos).

Jerry immediately disassembled the incorrect Air Tower Assembly sent by GE and removed the damper that happened to be identical to the one installed in my refrigerator model. With the old and the new one side by side he switched back and forth and forced the damper to function. The old one "caused" the noise after the damper door was told to close and the new one was silent. It was NOT the door operation that made the noise, but some other activity about 7 seconds after it closed. So, at this point it was the damper that CAUSED the noise to happen wherever it was itself. Right now the fridge is cooling down and we'll know definitely whether it is completely fixed in 24 hours. lol, I am still hearing FALSE noises since we are so used to the 10+ times per hour. Guess its like losing a limb and still feeling it. A final report will be added to this tomorrow -- knocking on wood (pun intended:  we've been hearing a woodpecker rap on wood for so long now).
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Update 12/7/2019: we are restoring the unit with the food and drinks removed for servicing. Up to this morning, now 9:36 am, the noise occurred only once and was faint and not audible more than a distance greater than 1/2 of that before. Tolerable. But it does indicate that the noise was NOT in the damper itself but after it opened and closed as learned during the installation of the damper and the testing by the service person. About 7 seconds after the damper function (open followed by immediate close) the noise occurred. We'll call it so far, so good as far as suppressing the noise.
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Update 12/8/2019: It's morning and the noise occurred another 4 times yesterday. So, a total of 5 occurrences that we observed in 27 hours. A far scream from the average of about 9 per hour or expected 243 in 27 hours. Unanswered is where the noise actually originates and the operation causing it. How the changing to the damper mattered is interesting and unknown since the noise appears elsewhere and after the damper functions.  Bad news is the noise persists. Great news is that the frequency has been reduced about 98% AND the noise it makes is at least 70% less audible. As a matter of fact, I without my hearing aid only heard it twice, whereas my wife and her good ears heard it all 5. Is the noise normal? According to the GE engineer, no. Bur, who is to say? Will there be future troubles because of whatever operation is causing the noise? Who can guess? I think we can live with the reduced noise for now, but will continually monitor any variations for worsening.
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12/13/2019 Update: The noise continues, but as stated at reduced frequencies and volumes. I find it unimaginable that GE could let this out with ANY noise as being heard! I have some theories as to what is making the sound and may test some noninvasive fixes to completely stifle the noise, not stop the operation causing the noise. My issue remains in suspended status with GE who has responded quickly and always as requested. Unfortunately I haven't found an engineer who can clearly indicate WHAT is making the noise despite omitting it is NOT normal. From all indications based on an incorrectly sent damper (another model) that was enclosed in Styrofoam, I can almost bet that the noise was a problem with that model and the Styrofoam was added to suppress the noise. I can only factually state that the noise always occurs after the damper closes and about 7 seconds later. But, I can not factually state that this is the only time it occurs unless the damper executes 9-11 times per hour which the engineer said it wouldn't, particularly when we haven't opened it for 4 hours! SO, it remains a mystery and aggravation. Considerably less so than before switching out the original damper, but if a room is silent and any noise is made that you cannot identify as normal, it is like ringing a bell and very annoying, Beware
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12/19/2019 Update: The issue CONTINUES! I was just reprimanded for FOCUSING on the noise. So, the problematic damper that chaatters inside a plastic air tower that amplifies the sound into something that sounds like a woodpecker drilling on the house and heard up to 38 feet away is MY problem because my hearing impairment (both ears) isn't bad enough despite the need for a hearing aid. The replacement damper from MY point of view is better because I can now only hear it from 20-25 feet away, whereas, my wife with normal hearing still hears it from 38 feet. Amazing! We still not have a conclusive SOURCE of the noise. My findings are based on common sense and physics ,watching the repair service, and comments from the GE Engineer. Here are my ideas:

After reviewing many, many videos on You Tube re similar noises, a couple specifically showing a GE damper chattering at the end of the opening function and the end of the closing function it is feasible to assume this chatter of about 8-10 chatters IS the 8-10 time knocking noise as amplified by the air tower assembly. It is also highly suspect since the incorrect replacement air tower (for a newer model) was enclosed in a make-shift Styrofoam case and taped around it with masking tape. This Styrofoam can provide no other purpose other than sound suppression, meaning that the newer model "patched" the damper design of my model with Styrofoam suppressant. So, GE knew about it. MY damper is not encased and rests directly in the plastic structure of the refrigerator and exposed directly to the air tower assembly with is about 3 times longer than the newer model and runs from the bottom to top of the food storage area. I would bet this is the SOURCE of the noise. If so, the possibility of first suppressing the sound would be impossible. Of more worry is that when the damper door reaches its end point, instead of immediately stopping, the damper movement mechanism continues to try to shut open or close it for a period of time (8-10 chatters) meaning that something else in the component is being stressed and will fail in the future. That is at least one or more repair services outside warranty at a cost of $550 each! Many, many articles are on the internet at repair websites detailing the noisy/broken damper.

Since neither the service person nor GE conclusively identified the source of the noise, it is still possible that it is a vibration of a capillary tube against something else during the period it occurs, namely just after the cooling cycle begins, about 7 seconds after compressor turns on, or from 10 seconds to 2 minutes after the compressor stops Usually 2 sequences of knocks about 10 seconds apart).

Without knowing the SOURCE of the noise, no one can provide a solution! If the damper is the problem, then even a refrigerator replacement of same model will have the same problematic damper in it and have the noise. Replacing the damper with a new one did reduce the volume of the sound. I can explain this looking at the distance between the damper door and the base is reaches at the end of operation.  Common sense tells me that a door hitting a resistance from a shorter distance (new one) compare to a longer distance (old one) but at the same speed would "bang" less due because it's force (mass x acceleration) is less than the one with longer distance. I'm no physics major, so this is just my common sense.

So, what are the alternatives:
1. Live with the noise of hearing a woodpecker in your fridge
2. Replacing it with a different refrigerator -- NOT the same model
3. Fixing a non-damper SOURCE problem.

Are there any more? I don't see any, and only 2 or 3 appeal to me.
All for now. I sent more sound bites to GE to analyze. Some day I expect to hear a reply from an engineer who has yet communicated directly me or my service repair shop. Until then, listen to the new sound bites recorded within the food storage area to capture all the noises and operations AND from 20' away:

Within Fridge after cooling begins
  20 feet away after cooling stops
  20 feet away after cooling starts
  All noise Sound Bites in Dropbox

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12/24/2019 - No action taken by GE since last time -- everybody on holiday vacations! The refrigerator continues to knock away. Subdued a little as stated, but the frequency remains up. So, instead of a woodpecker hammering hard wood, it is now hammering wood covered by a very thin piece of rubber (NOT Literally). Once again, although the continuous noise is annoying and embarrassing when friends come to visit,  the main concern is a defective part or problematic damper closing mechanism that continues to exert closing motion after the door is already closed. Hence, unnecessary stress that is bound to break something in the future. One would have thought the inventions of pistons and solenoid valves could have provided a few hints when designing this floppy door! You know, simple sliding open/close door that covers a hole without banging into sides and making a HAMMERING noise each time! But instead of fixing it in future models GE covered it up, literally this time, with Styrofoam to suppress the noise instead of focusing on the faulty design and problem for owners.
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12/30/2019 - Sent a note off to GE stating that the noise is getting worse again since the damper replacement. Frequency is back to original or worse , loudness back to being heard 38' away, number of consecutive (no pauses) knocks over 20 in a row increased. This wasn't a very Merry Christmas -- didn't invite that woodpecker!
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12/31/2019 - Looking forward to a Happy New Year with a replacement. I guess GE thinks the problem will be fixed by a new one. Let's hope. However, if the damper is making the noise, i.e., the source, than I hope they wish a little harder for a good damper. I approved a new order with the condition that it comes with a full warranty like the original. Maybe by the end of January we'll have some peace and quiet and confidence in our new refrigerator. As I stated back in the first post, other than this noise/part/design we are pleased with all the features. Thank you Della for the offer and coordination.
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1/9/2020 - A new fridge was installed on 1/7/20 to replace the original. And guess what? As expected, it makes the same noise, a hair softer, but still the same woodpecker and frequency. Guess this proves the damper door is involved. Now is it the damper operation itself causing the noise or the operation of air exchange from freezer to food storage and it's stopping that vibrates the door for the 2-second machine gun-woodpecker noise? If I knew how it was supposed to operate maybe I'd be able to conclude something myself. If a KNOWLEDGEABLE engineer knows how, then he should be able to conclude what causes the noise. Instead, the only engineer to comment did so remotely and he said the noise isn't normal without any further explanation. The 2 different service personnel on the 3 service calls also did not conclusively define where the noise originated or what was causing it.

The replacement was also NOT identical. Same model, but the ice maker installed did NOT have an on/off switch as it is supposed to as per manuals and as did the original refrigerator. Instead it has only a way to lock the feeler to the upright position (stop producing). One could say that suffices until the feeler malfunctions or breaks; then you have no way to turn off the ice and get to continuously empty the tray daily for the rest of the fridge's or your life or to turn off the water. The latter may present another problem in that the icemaker will assume water is in the fridge to process and continue its operation without water.! Of course, I am speculating, or should I say concerned without an engineer guaranteeing safety.

Right now we are determining whether we can live with noise that is heard faintly heard from 38' away (presently faintly, but the previous replacement of the damper on the original got louder later)  that happens 8-12 times per hour all day long and whether we feel comfortable that it is not causing more damage. The icemaker is a different story and needs to be like the original.
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1/10/2020 - I closed the incident report with the caveat that the noise is now just faintly heard at the moment. Remember, for the previous refrigerator the noise became louder as time passed. Should it became a real nightmare again, I'll open a new incident.

As far as the icemaker, I was told it is a replacement for the original with the electric switch. My reasons for the new design being inadequate are stated in previous update above. I feel the possibility of the flimsy feel arm is higher than an electric switch. Locking the feeler arm up is no different than the switching off before. There is now no secondary measure to ensure it is off if the arm fails. I'll just have to live with this.

GE service representative was very responsive to my issues, but could not get the complete answers I needed from the GE engineering team. This may have been a complicated issue since it involved not only the damper door which I have concluded actually made the noise, but was not conclusive that it was the damper operation that caused it. Quite possibly, it was the air flow or pressure equalization that rattled the damper door. Regardless, as in different models where the damper was enclosed in Styrofoam to suppress the noise from being amplified by the air tower assembly, this GDE25ESKJRSS model is not designed to allow the same noise suppressing technique.

I love all the other features (so far) of this model, except for the now livable noise that still occurs and the icemaker design. I appreciate the service case representative for her efforts to satisfy us and who eventually replaced the original refrigerator.
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3/4/20 Update - This woodpecker noise is totally ridiculous! Don't ever buy this refrigerator model or any GE product.
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7/15/2020 Update - If you read this entire post you would have noted that a NEW fridge was installed on 1/9/2020 and had identical noise! I was told to live with it. Well I did and around 6/26/2020 the noise essentially stopped! All of a sudden the woodpecker left town. Since then just 3-4 times we have heard a somewhat very weaken bird knocking. But, I would call that a victory since 99+% of the time since 6/26 he has vacated the premises. Now, does this mean the issue resolved itself? Or does this mean whatever was causing the noise broke or was worn down to no longer cause the noise? I don't want to think about it! I'll live with the now quiet fridge and enjoy all the other features I mentioned in my posts. If it breaks for good somehow related, it is dumpster time. I'll just buy a good brand. I still do NOT recommend GE who still has made no effort to identify the cause of the noise.

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9/22/2020

Woody only took a short vacation. He's back pounding as frequently as he initially did and as loud. This is getting real old. When I can sit in my easy chair 30-40 feet away, I can hear all the noisier appliances in the kitchen. But, the dishwasher only runs for a set period of time and only when I want it to. The fridge runs through its normal cycles humming as expected. But, this woodpecker is a constant disturbance. Just when you finally get silence, average about 30 seconds, the fridge goes through a cooling cycle moving freezer air to the refrigeration section for a short spirt. But when that happens, Woody perks up and pounds when the damper opens and then a second time when it closes. Why the fridge has to continually cycle in such short time period is really suspect. But to knock each time is a purely poor engineering design. What causes the actual knocking sound is still a mystery. Yes, I know its related to the cooling exchange and damper, but what is physically being down to make the noise? Other than this disturbing noise which could be symptoms of a larger problem in the future this replacement fridge better maintains the temperatures in freezer and refrigerator section -- meaning, I no longer see the drastic temperatures like I did with the original refrigerator. Specifically, the first one used to register -15 to -30 degrees for the freezer and 32-35 degrees for the refrigerator and disregarded the settings of 0 and 40. Now when I look at the actual temperatures, they are right around the settings. So, as I noted in the earlier posts, the original fridge WAS faulty in temperatures in addition to the unhappy bird knocking. Another reason why GE products will no longer be a choice for me. I'm being forced to LIVE WITH IT. Thus, I spend most of my time out or play music constantly which still doesn't make the knocking disappear -- just makes it less distracting.