CORRECTION: Below shows how to use Miracast, but I recently discovered that Amazon Prime Showtime subscription DOES allow you to get to Showtime Beyond, Extreme and all other Showtime channels. Instead of selecting Showtime Anytime on your FireTV, use Alexa and say Showtime Beyond or whatever to view current live program.
Over the holidays we decided to reduce our TV expenses by replacing Showtime on DISH with Showtime on Amazaon Prime using FrieTV adapter. Here are the things you need to know:
1. Amazon's $5.99/mo offer (3 months, then $19.99) gives you Showtime Anytime, but I have yet to find any Showtime channels other than East and West via the FireTV Prime access. It DOES set up Showtime Anytime though. So, you can use the Amazon Prime setup ID from any device to get to Showtime programming. From a PC, my Lenovo in my case, I can not only get East and West, but ALL Showtime channels, such as Beyond, Next, etc. To get thsoe channels displayed on my TV requires a different process than simply bringing up Showtime Anutime on the FireTV. It will require you to use mirroring of your PC via Miracast and thus the following instructions.
2. These instruction are for Windows 10: Does your PC have and support Miracast. Go to this You Tube Video for directions on how to check you PC for Miracast support. If it does, continue.
3. Now that you have both a FireTV adapter in your HDMI port and Miracast on your PC, set up you PC to recognize your FireTV. You may find out that it is already set up and just not activated (step 4). Go to START -> Settings -> Devices. Form there on my PC there is an option to go to Bluetooth and Other Devices. Do so. After that, I found a section called Wireless Displays and Docks where my FireTV was already displayed. Actually, I found two and still couldn't use them (didn't know how yet), so I Removed them both and set up new one by ADDING a device. As long as both FIreTV and your PC are connected to WiFi they will do their job upon Adding. Now you have FIRETV listed under Wireless Displays and Docks,
4. Activate and use Miracast-FireTV connection:
a) On FireTV: Bring up Amazon Prime FireTV. Now HOLD the Home button on your remote (top middle button). Up comes some ICONs, one of which is MIRRORING. Select it and you will get a screen that tells you it is activated for the FireTV and will wait for PC now (next step)
b) On your PC: Left-click on Action Center ICON on far right bottom of screen. Up pops options and you will need CONNECT. If you don't see it, look for Expand at bottom and click it to expand the shown options to all options. Now left-click CONNECT. Up comes your PC screen on your FireTV. You are done.
We keep our channels on DISH displayed to see what is playing, but you will need to get up the schedule on you PC so you can select what you want. Talking about LIVE TV schedule. Click on this Showtime Channel Guide to see Showtimes TV programs. Now simply click on the one of your choice and watch it on FIreTV. You need only select FULL Screen mode to get rid of Window frames. Even the top message re disconnecting can be removed from the screen if desired. To disconnect when done, go again to Action Center.
Monday, December 30, 2019
Saturday, December 28, 2019
927. "We Are Monsters" by Brian Kirk – 3.5 Stars
We Are Monsters by Brian Kirk – 3.5 Stars
Publisher: Flame Tree Press
ISBN: 9781787583795
I thought I had a great story for
the first 70%: well written, interesting, entertaining, and logical. I enjoyed
the characters, relationships, and unique behaviors, challenges, and future
plans. A new and total cure for schizophrenia raised my antenna for intriguing possibilities
and, since this was under the Horror Category, some weird and scary events. I
wasn’t wrong, and the horror did come about 55% into the story like falling off
a cliff. The story changed from a mystery about who killed someone to a deeply psychotic
world surrounding the insane and the staff caring for them. The murder is
explained as an effect of the new drug use, but is the patient the only one
involved? I was locked in for the next 15% of the book consuming brilliant fantasies
and a crescendo of horror. Up to this point my rating would have been around
4.5.
However, too much of one thing,
especially when is no longer new and refreshing, becomes stale and boring. I
tired of reading trivial nonsense over and over again and rushed past the stuff
to get to the end. I must say the book gives you an eerie feeling that the sane
are the ones not in touch with the world and the insane are. I think I got the
message. But I already got it 70% in and didn’t need it diminished by extraneous
writing. I’d be hard pressed to rate the last 30% more than 2.5.
I see the author has another novel
that I’ll probably look into and see if he learned from the reviews of this
book. As I stated, his potential is promising and the horror category is my
carrot. But, overall, I can only rate this one a 3.5 star.
Reviewer: Rich
Thursday, December 19, 2019
926. Dell Battery Saga
I first bought my Dell Inspiron 1440 in 2010. Yeah, it's old and this year became my wife's PC. It is so old Windows 10 was not yet supported and never did get supported, But, it has been running Windows 10 since it came out. That's the positive news for those with this old model from Dell.
Since day 1 this PC had a problem in that periodically I would notice, not exactly frequently, that the Power Icon was reporting that the battery was NOT charging and it's capacity was less than 100%. I NEVER used it on battery then. The fix, or circumvention was to simply unplug it a plug it back in and it started charging again. I got tired of constantly monitoring this around 2017 and removed the battery entirely. All went well until now when y wife wanted to use it in a warmer room (ha-ha). Thus, we decided to use it on battery and charge occasionally like everything else these days. Thus, comes the problem below:
Although it was charge to 100%, it discharged to about 67% then plummeted in a minute or less to 4%! Whoa...bad battery symptom. Tried again charging it and it progressed with charging until about last expected time of 1 hr and 27 minutes left and at around 71 % when it jumped right to 100%. Okay, let's run on it now. Same problem as before. Ran for about 10 minutes before 4% again when critical action shut the PC down. I ordered a new battery.
New battery came at about 65% charge. I drained it (battery used) until it got to 2% as recommended, but its discharge and recharge took on the same behavior as before on the old battery. I found a lot of information on the internet about other possible reasons and actually tried some without any change. Then decided to discharge again and recharge. This time it gradually went down, I kept changing the Power settings to capture the LOW, Reserve, and Critical conditions. It discharged correctly. I reset Power Settings to normal settings and recharged. This time it gradually did its job correctly. I can only conclude as I read on some articles that this discharge/charge cycle should be done about 5 times to condition the battery correctly. I believe the problem is fixed now. I wonder if old battery is really bad though or if I need to do the 5 times thing with it too since I had it stored in a drawer? For the $14.28 it cost me for the new one, I just keep the old one around in a drawer again and try later if I ever need to. Sure is nice now to use as a laptop again. Wife like me more too.
Since day 1 this PC had a problem in that periodically I would notice, not exactly frequently, that the Power Icon was reporting that the battery was NOT charging and it's capacity was less than 100%. I NEVER used it on battery then. The fix, or circumvention was to simply unplug it a plug it back in and it started charging again. I got tired of constantly monitoring this around 2017 and removed the battery entirely. All went well until now when y wife wanted to use it in a warmer room (ha-ha). Thus, we decided to use it on battery and charge occasionally like everything else these days. Thus, comes the problem below:
Although it was charge to 100%, it discharged to about 67% then plummeted in a minute or less to 4%! Whoa...bad battery symptom. Tried again charging it and it progressed with charging until about last expected time of 1 hr and 27 minutes left and at around 71 % when it jumped right to 100%. Okay, let's run on it now. Same problem as before. Ran for about 10 minutes before 4% again when critical action shut the PC down. I ordered a new battery.
New battery came at about 65% charge. I drained it (battery used) until it got to 2% as recommended, but its discharge and recharge took on the same behavior as before on the old battery. I found a lot of information on the internet about other possible reasons and actually tried some without any change. Then decided to discharge again and recharge. This time it gradually went down, I kept changing the Power settings to capture the LOW, Reserve, and Critical conditions. It discharged correctly. I reset Power Settings to normal settings and recharged. This time it gradually did its job correctly. I can only conclude as I read on some articles that this discharge/charge cycle should be done about 5 times to condition the battery correctly. I believe the problem is fixed now. I wonder if old battery is really bad though or if I need to do the 5 times thing with it too since I had it stored in a drawer? For the $14.28 it cost me for the new one, I just keep the old one around in a drawer again and try later if I ever need to. Sure is nice now to use as a laptop again. Wife like me more too.
Friday, December 6, 2019
925. GE Refrigerator Noise Part III (LIVE WITH IT!) with 9/22/20 UPDATE
Previous posts re the GE Refrigerator noise are:
911. GE Refrigerator/Freezer Noise Part I
920. GE Refrigerator/Freezer Noise Part II: Post 911 Continuance
Noise:
Within Fridge after cooling begins
20 feet away after cooling stops
20 feet away after cooling starts
All noise Sound Bites in Dropbox
My previous chat with GE and Engineering follows and precedes the Service call today Friday, 12/6//2019. This is an email to GE responding to the engineer's comments:
a) I think we can all agree with the engineer that the noise is NOT normal as he/she notes.
b) As far as damper being the problem, the noise does occurs when invoked by the service person approximately 7-10 seconds after performing the service function. This is only what I can report. Whether the 7-10 seconds after the function is invoked qualifies as "when the damper is activated" I do not know.
c) The comment that the damper cannot be the noise during the 3-4 hour inactive time makes complete sense to me, but the service person claims the damper is constantly servicing the air exchange even during the inactive time which differs from the engineer's comment that it should "seldom" occur.
d) The constant expansion /contraction of gases as per your engineer's comments and the possibility the noise is related to that fits the card in that the noise does occur constantly between 7 and 11 times each hour. He had GE send mastic to essentially stop a vibration caused by the constant start/stop of refrigerant movement and expansion. This needs to be examined.
e) His question as to whether the noise sound bites come from the Freezer section I will answer that the specific area of the noise according to the service person is behind the bottom refrigerator drawers (fruit & vegetables) where the refrigerator air tower & damper reside. The recorder was located multiple places when the sound bites were recorded, all outside some on the floor at left side, some at middle right while on a counter, some on left and middle top. I personally did not explore specifically where the noise was occurring.
f) The engineer comment "When a gas noise is confirmed, this is not directly related to the damper, unless the damper was kept open for a LONG time (forced) so the balance between refrigerator and freezer is broken, so the sealed system is forced to work harder to keep the balance." confuses me more and concerns me. The pattern of knocks (1/2/3) in each grouping sort of indicates that the noise is not a simple door opening (i.e., an occurrence of 1) or closing (occurrence of 1). Patterns of 2 or 3 8-10 knocks separated by 7-10 seconds to me indicated that some RETRY of a failed function is being done. His comment that a damper noise "should seldom occur" during an inactive 3-4 hour period and then his last comment in quotes above could mean an unbalance between the refrigerator and freezer when a damper is kept open for a LONG time (forced) could point to multiple problems.
I can only assume the noise is NOT normal and if it cannot be fixed we would request a replacement. With all the different possibilities I can only hope a service person has all the tools and the refrigerator has all the service functions to diagnose the issue. We remain with a lot of questions and no real solutions at this point. Maybe after this Friday we can better address some of your engineer's comments.
------------------
Update 12/6/2019: I highly recommend Samsson Appliance Repair, 806-665-0100 (Jerry & Catherine Noordenbos).
Jerry immediately disassembled the incorrect Air Tower Assembly sent by GE and removed the damper that happened to be identical to the one installed in my refrigerator model. With the old and the new one side by side he switched back and forth and forced the damper to function. The old one "caused" the noise after the damper door was told to close and the new one was silent. It was NOT the door operation that made the noise, but some other activity about 7 seconds after it closed. So, at this point it was the damper that CAUSED the noise to happen wherever it was itself. Right now the fridge is cooling down and we'll know definitely whether it is completely fixed in 24 hours. lol, I am still hearing FALSE noises since we are so used to the 10+ times per hour. Guess its like losing a limb and still feeling it. A final report will be added to this tomorrow -- knocking on wood (pun intended: we've been hearing a woodpecker rap on wood for so long now).
-------------------
Update 12/7/2019: we are restoring the unit with the food and drinks removed for servicing. Up to this morning, now 9:36 am, the noise occurred only once and was faint and not audible more than a distance greater than 1/2 of that before. Tolerable. But it does indicate that the noise was NOT in the damper itself but after it opened and closed as learned during the installation of the damper and the testing by the service person. About 7 seconds after the damper function (open followed by immediate close) the noise occurred. We'll call it so far, so good as far as suppressing the noise.
---------------------
Update 12/8/2019: It's morning and the noise occurred another 4 times yesterday. So, a total of 5 occurrences that we observed in 27 hours. A far scream from the average of about 9 per hour or expected 243 in 27 hours. Unanswered is where the noise actually originates and the operation causing it. How the changing to the damper mattered is interesting and unknown since the noise appears elsewhere and after the damper functions. Bad news is the noise persists. Great news is that the frequency has been reduced about 98% AND the noise it makes is at least 70% less audible. As a matter of fact, I without my hearing aid only heard it twice, whereas my wife and her good ears heard it all 5. Is the noise normal? According to the GE engineer, no. Bur, who is to say? Will there be future troubles because of whatever operation is causing the noise? Who can guess? I think we can live with the reduced noise for now, but will continually monitor any variations for worsening.
---------------
12/13/2019 Update: The noise continues, but as stated at reduced frequencies and volumes. I find it unimaginable that GE could let this out with ANY noise as being heard! I have some theories as to what is making the sound and may test some noninvasive fixes to completely stifle the noise, not stop the operation causing the noise. My issue remains in suspended status with GE who has responded quickly and always as requested. Unfortunately I haven't found an engineer who can clearly indicate WHAT is making the noise despite omitting it is NOT normal. From all indications based on an incorrectly sent damper (another model) that was enclosed in Styrofoam, I can almost bet that the noise was a problem with that model and the Styrofoam was added to suppress the noise. I can only factually state that the noise always occurs after the damper closes and about 7 seconds later. But, I can not factually state that this is the only time it occurs unless the damper executes 9-11 times per hour which the engineer said it wouldn't, particularly when we haven't opened it for 4 hours! SO, it remains a mystery and aggravation. Considerably less so than before switching out the original damper, but if a room is silent and any noise is made that you cannot identify as normal, it is like ringing a bell and very annoying, Beware
---------------------------
12/19/2019 Update: The issue CONTINUES! I was just reprimanded for FOCUSING on the noise. So, the problematic damper that chaatters inside a plastic air tower that amplifies the sound into something that sounds like a woodpecker drilling on the house and heard up to 38 feet away is MY problem because my hearing impairment (both ears) isn't bad enough despite the need for a hearing aid. The replacement damper from MY point of view is better because I can now only hear it from 20-25 feet away, whereas, my wife with normal hearing still hears it from 38 feet. Amazing! We still not have a conclusive SOURCE of the noise. My findings are based on common sense and physics ,watching the repair service, and comments from the GE Engineer. Here are my ideas:
After reviewing many, many videos on You Tube re similar noises, a couple specifically showing a GE damper chattering at the end of the opening function and the end of the closing function it is feasible to assume this chatter of about 8-10 chatters IS the 8-10 time knocking noise as amplified by the air tower assembly. It is also highly suspect since the incorrect replacement air tower (for a newer model) was enclosed in a make-shift Styrofoam case and taped around it with masking tape. This Styrofoam can provide no other purpose other than sound suppression, meaning that the newer model "patched" the damper design of my model with Styrofoam suppressant. So, GE knew about it. MY damper is not encased and rests directly in the plastic structure of the refrigerator and exposed directly to the air tower assembly with is about 3 times longer than the newer model and runs from the bottom to top of the food storage area. I would bet this is the SOURCE of the noise. If so, the possibility of first suppressing the sound would be impossible. Of more worry is that when the damper door reaches its end point, instead of immediately stopping, the damper movement mechanism continues to try to shut open or close it for a period of time (8-10 chatters) meaning that something else in the component is being stressed and will fail in the future. That is at least one or more repair services outside warranty at a cost of $550 each! Many, many articles are on the internet at repair websites detailing the noisy/broken damper.
Since neither the service person nor GE conclusively identified the source of the noise, it is still possible that it is a vibration of a capillary tube against something else during the period it occurs, namely just after the cooling cycle begins, about 7 seconds after compressor turns on, or from 10 seconds to 2 minutes after the compressor stops Usually 2 sequences of knocks about 10 seconds apart).
Without knowing the SOURCE of the noise, no one can provide a solution! If the damper is the problem, then even a refrigerator replacement of same model will have the same problematic damper in it and have the noise. Replacing the damper with a new one did reduce the volume of the sound. I can explain this looking at the distance between the damper door and the base is reaches at the end of operation. Common sense tells me that a door hitting a resistance from a shorter distance (new one) compare to a longer distance (old one) but at the same speed would "bang" less due because it's force (mass x acceleration) is less than the one with longer distance. I'm no physics major, so this is just my common sense.
So, what are the alternatives:
1. Live with the noise of hearing a woodpecker in your fridge
2. Replacing it with a different refrigerator -- NOT the same model
3. Fixing a non-damper SOURCE problem.
Are there any more? I don't see any, and only 2 or 3 appeal to me.
All for now. I sent more sound bites to GE to analyze. Some day I expect to hear a reply from an engineer who has yet communicated directly me or my service repair shop. Until then, listen to the new sound bites recorded within the food storage area to capture all the noises and operations AND from 20' away:
Within Fridge after cooling begins
20 feet away after cooling stops
20 feet away after cooling starts
All noise Sound Bites in Dropbox
-------------------
12/24/2019 - No action taken by GE since last time -- everybody on holiday vacations! The refrigerator continues to knock away. Subdued a little as stated, but the frequency remains up. So, instead of a woodpecker hammering hard wood, it is now hammering wood covered by a very thin piece of rubber (NOT Literally). Once again, although the continuous noise is annoying and embarrassing when friends come to visit, the main concern is a defective part or problematic damper closing mechanism that continues to exert closing motion after the door is already closed. Hence, unnecessary stress that is bound to break something in the future. One would have thought the inventions of pistons and solenoid valves could have provided a few hints when designing this floppy door! You know, simple sliding open/close door that covers a hole without banging into sides and making a HAMMERING noise each time! But instead of fixing it in future models GE covered it up, literally this time, with Styrofoam to suppress the noise instead of focusing on the faulty design and problem for owners.
----------------------------
12/30/2019 - Sent a note off to GE stating that the noise is getting worse again since the damper replacement. Frequency is back to original or worse , loudness back to being heard 38' away, number of consecutive (no pauses) knocks over 20 in a row increased. This wasn't a very Merry Christmas -- didn't invite that woodpecker!
-------------------
12/31/2019 - Looking forward to a Happy New Year with a replacement. I guess GE thinks the problem will be fixed by a new one. Let's hope. However, if the damper is making the noise, i.e., the source, than I hope they wish a little harder for a good damper. I approved a new order with the condition that it comes with a full warranty like the original. Maybe by the end of January we'll have some peace and quiet and confidence in our new refrigerator. As I stated back in the first post, other than this noise/part/design we are pleased with all the features. Thank you Della for the offer and coordination.
-------------------
1/9/2020 - A new fridge was installed on 1/7/20 to replace the original. And guess what? As expected, it makes the same noise, a hair softer, but still the same woodpecker and frequency. Guess this proves the damper door is involved. Now is it the damper operation itself causing the noise or the operation of air exchange from freezer to food storage and it's stopping that vibrates the door for the 2-second machine gun-woodpecker noise? If I knew how it was supposed to operate maybe I'd be able to conclude something myself. If a KNOWLEDGEABLE engineer knows how, then he should be able to conclude what causes the noise. Instead, the only engineer to comment did so remotely and he said the noise isn't normal without any further explanation. The 2 different service personnel on the 3 service calls also did not conclusively define where the noise originated or what was causing it.
The replacement was also NOT identical. Same model, but the ice maker installed did NOT have an on/off switch as it is supposed to as per manuals and as did the original refrigerator. Instead it has only a way to lock the feeler to the upright position (stop producing). One could say that suffices until the feeler malfunctions or breaks; then you have no way to turn off the ice and get to continuously empty the tray daily for the rest of the fridge's or your life or to turn off the water. The latter may present another problem in that the icemaker will assume water is in the fridge to process and continue its operation without water.! Of course, I am speculating, or should I say concerned without an engineer guaranteeing safety.
Right now we are determining whether we can live with noise that is heard faintly heard from 38' away (presently faintly, but the previous replacement of the damper on the original got louder later) that happens 8-12 times per hour all day long and whether we feel comfortable that it is not causing more damage. The icemaker is a different story and needs to be like the original.
----------------------------------------
1/10/2020 - I closed the incident report with the caveat that the noise is now just faintly heard at the moment. Remember, for the previous refrigerator the noise became louder as time passed. Should it became a real nightmare again, I'll open a new incident.
As far as the icemaker, I was told it is a replacement for the original with the electric switch. My reasons for the new design being inadequate are stated in previous update above. I feel the possibility of the flimsy feel arm is higher than an electric switch. Locking the feeler arm up is no different than the switching off before. There is now no secondary measure to ensure it is off if the arm fails. I'll just have to live with this.
GE service representative was very responsive to my issues, but could not get the complete answers I needed from the GE engineering team. This may have been a complicated issue since it involved not only the damper door which I have concluded actually made the noise, but was not conclusive that it was the damper operation that caused it. Quite possibly, it was the air flow or pressure equalization that rattled the damper door. Regardless, as in different models where the damper was enclosed in Styrofoam to suppress the noise from being amplified by the air tower assembly, this GDE25ESKJRSS model is not designed to allow the same noise suppressing technique.
I love all the other features (so far) of this model, except for the now livable noise that still occurs and the icemaker design. I appreciate the service case representative for her efforts to satisfy us and who eventually replaced the original refrigerator.
--------
3/4/20 Update - This woodpecker noise is totally ridiculous! Don't ever buy this refrigerator model or any GE product.
-----------------
7/15/2020 Update - If you read this entire post you would have noted that a NEW fridge was installed on 1/9/2020 and had identical noise! I was told to live with it. Well I did and around 6/26/2020 the noise essentially stopped! All of a sudden the woodpecker left town. Since then just 3-4 times we have heard a somewhat very weaken bird knocking. But, I would call that a victory since 99+% of the time since 6/26 he has vacated the premises. Now, does this mean the issue resolved itself? Or does this mean whatever was causing the noise broke or was worn down to no longer cause the noise? I don't want to think about it! I'll live with the now quiet fridge and enjoy all the other features I mentioned in my posts. If it breaks for good somehow related, it is dumpster time. I'll just buy a good brand. I still do NOT recommend GE who still has made no effort to identify the cause of the noise.
911. GE Refrigerator/Freezer Noise Part I
920. GE Refrigerator/Freezer Noise Part II: Post 911 Continuance
Noise:
Within Fridge after cooling begins
20 feet away after cooling stops
20 feet away after cooling starts
All noise Sound Bites in Dropbox
My previous chat with GE and Engineering follows and precedes the Service call today Friday, 12/6//2019. This is an email to GE responding to the engineer's comments:
a) I think we can all agree with the engineer that the noise is NOT normal as he/she notes.
b) As far as damper being the problem, the noise does occurs when invoked by the service person approximately 7-10 seconds after performing the service function. This is only what I can report. Whether the 7-10 seconds after the function is invoked qualifies as "when the damper is activated" I do not know.
c) The comment that the damper cannot be the noise during the 3-4 hour inactive time makes complete sense to me, but the service person claims the damper is constantly servicing the air exchange even during the inactive time which differs from the engineer's comment that it should "seldom" occur.
d) The constant expansion /contraction of gases as per your engineer's comments and the possibility the noise is related to that fits the card in that the noise does occur constantly between 7 and 11 times each hour. He had GE send mastic to essentially stop a vibration caused by the constant start/stop of refrigerant movement and expansion. This needs to be examined.
e) His question as to whether the noise sound bites come from the Freezer section I will answer that the specific area of the noise according to the service person is behind the bottom refrigerator drawers (fruit & vegetables) where the refrigerator air tower & damper reside. The recorder was located multiple places when the sound bites were recorded, all outside some on the floor at left side, some at middle right while on a counter, some on left and middle top. I personally did not explore specifically where the noise was occurring.
f) The engineer comment "When a gas noise is confirmed, this is not directly related to the damper, unless the damper was kept open for a LONG time (forced) so the balance between refrigerator and freezer is broken, so the sealed system is forced to work harder to keep the balance." confuses me more and concerns me. The pattern of knocks (1/2/3) in each grouping sort of indicates that the noise is not a simple door opening (i.e., an occurrence of 1) or closing (occurrence of 1). Patterns of 2 or 3 8-10 knocks separated by 7-10 seconds to me indicated that some RETRY of a failed function is being done. His comment that a damper noise "should seldom occur" during an inactive 3-4 hour period and then his last comment in quotes above could mean an unbalance between the refrigerator and freezer when a damper is kept open for a LONG time (forced) could point to multiple problems.
I can only assume the noise is NOT normal and if it cannot be fixed we would request a replacement. With all the different possibilities I can only hope a service person has all the tools and the refrigerator has all the service functions to diagnose the issue. We remain with a lot of questions and no real solutions at this point. Maybe after this Friday we can better address some of your engineer's comments.
-------------------------------------
Also needed to be noted is that two parts sent by GE were NOT compatible with my model. One was the Air Tower Assembly for which pictures were provided in the 920 post.------------------
Update 12/6/2019: I highly recommend Samsson Appliance Repair, 806-665-0100 (Jerry & Catherine Noordenbos).
Jerry immediately disassembled the incorrect Air Tower Assembly sent by GE and removed the damper that happened to be identical to the one installed in my refrigerator model. With the old and the new one side by side he switched back and forth and forced the damper to function. The old one "caused" the noise after the damper door was told to close and the new one was silent. It was NOT the door operation that made the noise, but some other activity about 7 seconds after it closed. So, at this point it was the damper that CAUSED the noise to happen wherever it was itself. Right now the fridge is cooling down and we'll know definitely whether it is completely fixed in 24 hours. lol, I am still hearing FALSE noises since we are so used to the 10+ times per hour. Guess its like losing a limb and still feeling it. A final report will be added to this tomorrow -- knocking on wood (pun intended: we've been hearing a woodpecker rap on wood for so long now).
-------------------
Update 12/7/2019: we are restoring the unit with the food and drinks removed for servicing. Up to this morning, now 9:36 am, the noise occurred only once and was faint and not audible more than a distance greater than 1/2 of that before. Tolerable. But it does indicate that the noise was NOT in the damper itself but after it opened and closed as learned during the installation of the damper and the testing by the service person. About 7 seconds after the damper function (open followed by immediate close) the noise occurred. We'll call it so far, so good as far as suppressing the noise.
---------------------
Update 12/8/2019: It's morning and the noise occurred another 4 times yesterday. So, a total of 5 occurrences that we observed in 27 hours. A far scream from the average of about 9 per hour or expected 243 in 27 hours. Unanswered is where the noise actually originates and the operation causing it. How the changing to the damper mattered is interesting and unknown since the noise appears elsewhere and after the damper functions. Bad news is the noise persists. Great news is that the frequency has been reduced about 98% AND the noise it makes is at least 70% less audible. As a matter of fact, I without my hearing aid only heard it twice, whereas my wife and her good ears heard it all 5. Is the noise normal? According to the GE engineer, no. Bur, who is to say? Will there be future troubles because of whatever operation is causing the noise? Who can guess? I think we can live with the reduced noise for now, but will continually monitor any variations for worsening.
---------------
12/13/2019 Update: The noise continues, but as stated at reduced frequencies and volumes. I find it unimaginable that GE could let this out with ANY noise as being heard! I have some theories as to what is making the sound and may test some noninvasive fixes to completely stifle the noise, not stop the operation causing the noise. My issue remains in suspended status with GE who has responded quickly and always as requested. Unfortunately I haven't found an engineer who can clearly indicate WHAT is making the noise despite omitting it is NOT normal. From all indications based on an incorrectly sent damper (another model) that was enclosed in Styrofoam, I can almost bet that the noise was a problem with that model and the Styrofoam was added to suppress the noise. I can only factually state that the noise always occurs after the damper closes and about 7 seconds later. But, I can not factually state that this is the only time it occurs unless the damper executes 9-11 times per hour which the engineer said it wouldn't, particularly when we haven't opened it for 4 hours! SO, it remains a mystery and aggravation. Considerably less so than before switching out the original damper, but if a room is silent and any noise is made that you cannot identify as normal, it is like ringing a bell and very annoying, Beware
---------------------------
12/19/2019 Update: The issue CONTINUES! I was just reprimanded for FOCUSING on the noise. So, the problematic damper that chaatters inside a plastic air tower that amplifies the sound into something that sounds like a woodpecker drilling on the house and heard up to 38 feet away is MY problem because my hearing impairment (both ears) isn't bad enough despite the need for a hearing aid. The replacement damper from MY point of view is better because I can now only hear it from 20-25 feet away, whereas, my wife with normal hearing still hears it from 38 feet. Amazing! We still not have a conclusive SOURCE of the noise. My findings are based on common sense and physics ,watching the repair service, and comments from the GE Engineer. Here are my ideas:
After reviewing many, many videos on You Tube re similar noises, a couple specifically showing a GE damper chattering at the end of the opening function and the end of the closing function it is feasible to assume this chatter of about 8-10 chatters IS the 8-10 time knocking noise as amplified by the air tower assembly. It is also highly suspect since the incorrect replacement air tower (for a newer model) was enclosed in a make-shift Styrofoam case and taped around it with masking tape. This Styrofoam can provide no other purpose other than sound suppression, meaning that the newer model "patched" the damper design of my model with Styrofoam suppressant. So, GE knew about it. MY damper is not encased and rests directly in the plastic structure of the refrigerator and exposed directly to the air tower assembly with is about 3 times longer than the newer model and runs from the bottom to top of the food storage area. I would bet this is the SOURCE of the noise. If so, the possibility of first suppressing the sound would be impossible. Of more worry is that when the damper door reaches its end point, instead of immediately stopping, the damper movement mechanism continues to try to shut open or close it for a period of time (8-10 chatters) meaning that something else in the component is being stressed and will fail in the future. That is at least one or more repair services outside warranty at a cost of $550 each! Many, many articles are on the internet at repair websites detailing the noisy/broken damper.
Since neither the service person nor GE conclusively identified the source of the noise, it is still possible that it is a vibration of a capillary tube against something else during the period it occurs, namely just after the cooling cycle begins, about 7 seconds after compressor turns on, or from 10 seconds to 2 minutes after the compressor stops Usually 2 sequences of knocks about 10 seconds apart).
Without knowing the SOURCE of the noise, no one can provide a solution! If the damper is the problem, then even a refrigerator replacement of same model will have the same problematic damper in it and have the noise. Replacing the damper with a new one did reduce the volume of the sound. I can explain this looking at the distance between the damper door and the base is reaches at the end of operation. Common sense tells me that a door hitting a resistance from a shorter distance (new one) compare to a longer distance (old one) but at the same speed would "bang" less due because it's force (mass x acceleration) is less than the one with longer distance. I'm no physics major, so this is just my common sense.
So, what are the alternatives:
1. Live with the noise of hearing a woodpecker in your fridge
2. Replacing it with a different refrigerator -- NOT the same model
3. Fixing a non-damper SOURCE problem.
Are there any more? I don't see any, and only 2 or 3 appeal to me.
All for now. I sent more sound bites to GE to analyze. Some day I expect to hear a reply from an engineer who has yet communicated directly me or my service repair shop. Until then, listen to the new sound bites recorded within the food storage area to capture all the noises and operations AND from 20' away:
Within Fridge after cooling begins
20 feet away after cooling stops
20 feet away after cooling starts
All noise Sound Bites in Dropbox
-------------------
12/24/2019 - No action taken by GE since last time -- everybody on holiday vacations! The refrigerator continues to knock away. Subdued a little as stated, but the frequency remains up. So, instead of a woodpecker hammering hard wood, it is now hammering wood covered by a very thin piece of rubber (NOT Literally). Once again, although the continuous noise is annoying and embarrassing when friends come to visit, the main concern is a defective part or problematic damper closing mechanism that continues to exert closing motion after the door is already closed. Hence, unnecessary stress that is bound to break something in the future. One would have thought the inventions of pistons and solenoid valves could have provided a few hints when designing this floppy door! You know, simple sliding open/close door that covers a hole without banging into sides and making a HAMMERING noise each time! But instead of fixing it in future models GE covered it up, literally this time, with Styrofoam to suppress the noise instead of focusing on the faulty design and problem for owners.
----------------------------
12/30/2019 - Sent a note off to GE stating that the noise is getting worse again since the damper replacement. Frequency is back to original or worse , loudness back to being heard 38' away, number of consecutive (no pauses) knocks over 20 in a row increased. This wasn't a very Merry Christmas -- didn't invite that woodpecker!
-------------------
12/31/2019 - Looking forward to a Happy New Year with a replacement. I guess GE thinks the problem will be fixed by a new one. Let's hope. However, if the damper is making the noise, i.e., the source, than I hope they wish a little harder for a good damper. I approved a new order with the condition that it comes with a full warranty like the original. Maybe by the end of January we'll have some peace and quiet and confidence in our new refrigerator. As I stated back in the first post, other than this noise/part/design we are pleased with all the features. Thank you Della for the offer and coordination.
-------------------
1/9/2020 - A new fridge was installed on 1/7/20 to replace the original. And guess what? As expected, it makes the same noise, a hair softer, but still the same woodpecker and frequency. Guess this proves the damper door is involved. Now is it the damper operation itself causing the noise or the operation of air exchange from freezer to food storage and it's stopping that vibrates the door for the 2-second machine gun-woodpecker noise? If I knew how it was supposed to operate maybe I'd be able to conclude something myself. If a KNOWLEDGEABLE engineer knows how, then he should be able to conclude what causes the noise. Instead, the only engineer to comment did so remotely and he said the noise isn't normal without any further explanation. The 2 different service personnel on the 3 service calls also did not conclusively define where the noise originated or what was causing it.
The replacement was also NOT identical. Same model, but the ice maker installed did NOT have an on/off switch as it is supposed to as per manuals and as did the original refrigerator. Instead it has only a way to lock the feeler to the upright position (stop producing). One could say that suffices until the feeler malfunctions or breaks; then you have no way to turn off the ice and get to continuously empty the tray daily for the rest of the fridge's or your life or to turn off the water. The latter may present another problem in that the icemaker will assume water is in the fridge to process and continue its operation without water.! Of course, I am speculating, or should I say concerned without an engineer guaranteeing safety.
Right now we are determining whether we can live with noise that is heard faintly heard from 38' away (presently faintly, but the previous replacement of the damper on the original got louder later) that happens 8-12 times per hour all day long and whether we feel comfortable that it is not causing more damage. The icemaker is a different story and needs to be like the original.
----------------------------------------
1/10/2020 - I closed the incident report with the caveat that the noise is now just faintly heard at the moment. Remember, for the previous refrigerator the noise became louder as time passed. Should it became a real nightmare again, I'll open a new incident.
As far as the icemaker, I was told it is a replacement for the original with the electric switch. My reasons for the new design being inadequate are stated in previous update above. I feel the possibility of the flimsy feel arm is higher than an electric switch. Locking the feeler arm up is no different than the switching off before. There is now no secondary measure to ensure it is off if the arm fails. I'll just have to live with this.
GE service representative was very responsive to my issues, but could not get the complete answers I needed from the GE engineering team. This may have been a complicated issue since it involved not only the damper door which I have concluded actually made the noise, but was not conclusive that it was the damper operation that caused it. Quite possibly, it was the air flow or pressure equalization that rattled the damper door. Regardless, as in different models where the damper was enclosed in Styrofoam to suppress the noise from being amplified by the air tower assembly, this GDE25ESKJRSS model is not designed to allow the same noise suppressing technique.
I love all the other features (so far) of this model, except for the now livable noise that still occurs and the icemaker design. I appreciate the service case representative for her efforts to satisfy us and who eventually replaced the original refrigerator.
--------
3/4/20 Update - This woodpecker noise is totally ridiculous! Don't ever buy this refrigerator model or any GE product.
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7/15/2020 Update - If you read this entire post you would have noted that a NEW fridge was installed on 1/9/2020 and had identical noise! I was told to live with it. Well I did and around 6/26/2020 the noise essentially stopped! All of a sudden the woodpecker left town. Since then just 3-4 times we have heard a somewhat very weaken bird knocking. But, I would call that a victory since 99+% of the time since 6/26 he has vacated the premises. Now, does this mean the issue resolved itself? Or does this mean whatever was causing the noise broke or was worn down to no longer cause the noise? I don't want to think about it! I'll live with the now quiet fridge and enjoy all the other features I mentioned in my posts. If it breaks for good somehow related, it is dumpster time. I'll just buy a good brand. I still do NOT recommend GE who still has made no effort to identify the cause of the noise.
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9/22/2020
Woody only took a short vacation. He's back pounding as frequently as he initially did and as loud. This is getting real old. When I can sit in my easy chair 30-40 feet away, I can hear all the noisier appliances in the kitchen. But, the dishwasher only runs for a set period of time and only when I want it to. The fridge runs through its normal cycles humming as expected. But, this woodpecker is a constant disturbance. Just when you finally get silence, average about 30 seconds, the fridge goes through a cooling cycle moving freezer air to the refrigeration section for a short spirt. But when that happens, Woody perks up and pounds when the damper opens and then a second time when it closes. Why the fridge has to continually cycle in such short time period is really suspect. But to knock each time is a purely poor engineering design. What causes the actual knocking sound is still a mystery. Yes, I know its related to the cooling exchange and damper, but what is physically being down to make the noise? Other than this disturbing noise which could be symptoms of a larger problem in the future this replacement fridge better maintains the temperatures in freezer and refrigerator section -- meaning, I no longer see the drastic temperatures like I did with the original refrigerator. Specifically, the first one used to register -15 to -30 degrees for the freezer and 32-35 degrees for the refrigerator and disregarded the settings of 0 and 40. Now when I look at the actual temperatures, they are right around the settings. So, as I noted in the earlier posts, the original fridge WAS faulty in temperatures in addition to the unhappy bird knocking. Another reason why GE products will no longer be a choice for me. I'm being forced to LIVE WITH IT. Thus, I spend most of my time out or play music constantly which still doesn't make the knocking disappear -- just makes it less distracting.
Tuesday, December 3, 2019
924. "Ex Libris: The Secret Manuscript" by John Oehler – 5 Stars
Ex Libris: The Secret
Manuscript by John Oehler – 5 Stars
Publisher: CreateSpace
ISBN: 1689376651
You will enjoy this one about Dan
hired to “acquire” three old Biblical texts, one of which is a proposedly secret
book that contradicts the God’s current belief that Israelite were the chosen
people. Revealing its contents could start a major Mid-East War. This is not
known at the time Dan, who sometimes goes by Jardini (Gypsy name), as he tries
to get the book to his employer. The only trouble is that there are other
factions following him and trying to get their hands on it too. The key
operative on one of the other sides is an impressive woman named Jade, fully
trained to handle all opposition. Twists along the way reveal her employer and his
separate attempts to acquire the book, obviously worth millions to the right
people. The action never stops and never overdone with senseless page-fillers
only. Learn about the secret book and its danger to the world while enjoying a
action-packed adventure of intrigue. I look forward to more stories with Jardani
and Jade.
Reviewer: Rich
923. EPUB Converter ASCM to Kindle Formats
Occasionally when you borrow an eBook from a public library (FREE people) the book is available only in .ASCM format. Not good for a Kindle! So,
2. Adobe Digital Editions (download it if you do not have it, set up an Adobe ID (login) to authorize your device (Windows 10).
1. Tell your library system to send an EPUB. It will instead send you a .ASCM file. You now need to convert it to an .epub file AND then to a .mobi file that the Kindle 1 recognizes.
2. Adobe Digital Editions (download it if you do not have it, set up an Adobe ID (login) to authorize your device (Windows 10).
3. Copy (or drag) the .acsm file downloaded into Adobe Digital Editions library and READ. This will download the book as a .EPUB file in it's output folder. Locate the .EPUB file on your PC (I use EVERYTHING [slick, download if you don't have it) to find files anywhere on your PC by name or text search].
4. Now you need an EPUB to MOBI converter. Be aware that almost all online converters will not remove DRM protection, so get a PC version. I have Any Ebook converter that can be downloaded from https://www.any-ebook-converter.com/Download . Install, start it. Copy the EPUB over to it by dragging from location found in 3 above.
4. Now you need an EPUB to MOBI converter. Be aware that almost all online converters will not remove DRM protection, so get a PC version. I have Any Ebook converter that can be downloaded from https://www.any-ebook-converter.com/Download . Install, start it. Copy the EPUB over to it by dragging from location found in 3 above.
5. Bring up Any Ebook Converter, drag the .EPUB into it, hit Convert to MOBI. Again ring up folder with the .MOBI file in it
6. Attach your Kindle to PC via the USB cable and bring up it's Documents folder. Now copy the .MOBI file to you DOCUMENTS folder on the Kindle. To get it to display on "For You" screen, yuo might have to put it in KINDLE, eBooks, or Books folders; haven't quite figured this out yet.
7. You should now have it on Kindle. Enjoy reading it.
Note: ePub can be bought for a cheap $14 and change. It allows up to 10 conversions as a trial before purchasing. GO to to read all about ePub Converter tools for details.
Note: ePub can be bought for a cheap $14 and change. It allows up to 10 conversions as a trial before purchasing. GO to to read all about ePub Converter tools for details.
Thursday, November 14, 2019
922. Ancestral Quest 16
I was misinformed re the requirement to access Famiy Search and told I would have to purchase a key for AQ 16 upgrade. NOT TRUE. The exact same functions of AQ 15 are available if you get the FREE AQ16 BASICS. So, go at it ancestor researchers. AQ16 IS much better than RootsMagic. Both are nice, but AQ's appearance, navigation, interface to FamilySearch.org are far superior. One quick example is syncing of entire family, i.e., parents and children. AQ will simply allow you to check which members of a family to move across to your database, THEN you hit the button to do all at once. RootsMagic you have to each individually with a screen refresh between each. If interest in other differences, hit the comments button.
921. Impeachment Inquiry Proceedings
Time to chime in.Its no wonder why this country is going to pot (not the weed, but, maybe so). Witch hunt after witch hunt over a conversation between world leaders. Do the Dims think this strengthens this country? Particularly the way they orchestrated this sham. First collect as much dirt, factual or not, get the great (H-Ha) Media to excite the people, juice up their part of sheep to baa in unison, and then continue their lying.
Can you believe yesterday at the proceedings Adam Shiff said even he did not know the identity of the whistleblower! Well then, who does? How did he learn enough "details" to light the fire? Why didn't the Republicans ask this? Why didn't they ask how he was informed -- who, letter, email, etc. -- and pursue getting that person subpoenaed or an physical documents read in? It is We the People's right to ensure the Constitution is followed to ensure the accused lawyers can properly question the credibility and motives of the accuser. This can be done partially without knowing the identity. How can Adam Shiff determine sufficient credibility to initiate this witch hunt. Doe being a whistleblower mean ANYONE can write an anonymous letter about anybody and be ensured such a sham is initiated? You talk about corruption! This is treason for organizing a coup to attack the highest office in America without any proof. His only proof is the dirt he stirs up and the mixing or statements the way that benefits the Dims.
I repeat:
1. Who is the whistleblower?
2. Doe Shiff or doesn't Shiff know who he is?
3. Did Shiff converse with the actual whistlebower?
4. If not, who did and who is feeding the crap to him and why isn't he subpoenaed?
5. Are there any physical documents of the claim? Why were't they entered and available to the public?
I certainly don't know the circumstances at the moment of the call to the Ukraine President. Trump claims there was a previous call and that transcript will be made public which has bearing on his comments to the Ukraine President on the call in question. I can see where, in the timeline, funds for aide was held up BEFORE the call for reasons of suspected corruption. Do the Dims expect to get the answer to that question and freezing of funds before the call? Like Congress acts so fast! The House is such pathetically run government entity!
So the previous paragraph address the holding of funds and the expected duration of that hold to investigate corruption and more particularly the credibility of the new Ukraine President. Sounds logical to me! Sounds CORRECT to me!
If the suspected corruption (fact for many years) persists and did persist in 2018 too (fact), and the company where Hunter Biden was "specially" placed on its boar was being investigated for corruption (fact), and Hunter obliged during the rein of V.P. Biden who should have been obligated to performing independently from him, and the Ukraine investigation was TOLD to stop strangely just when the Biden's were involved at the same time in the Ukraine, wasn't it appropriate to ask the Ukraine President to investigate? Maybe Trump shouldn't have used the name "Biden" and should have instead tip-toed around using the name and explained the possible corruption by sticking only to the investigated company's name, but Trump at the spur of the moment wanted to explain the time frame of interest and did mention the name. Maybe a BAD for him because of that. BUT, that is NOT a reason for Shiff and cronies to shout IMPEACHMENT! How childless, or should I say CORRUPT!
We the People ARE smarter! It's again time for the ignorant to educate themselves GOOD for the country, OUR AMERICA, and what and who is out to DESTROY it. I am so tired of the two party system. I am so tired of the kids under 21 who THINK they are grown up, but continue to show their ignorance in living in an adult world. Socialism comes to mind -- Socialism, a word they can't even define!). I'm tired of the SHEEP Herds where nobody thinks himself or herself any more because it is easier to just follow someone else. I could write a large book with the nonsense We the People have to wade through because of the sheep! We need independent thinkers to support OUR needs and desires. We DON"T have it in Congress. So sad. America needs to wake up! We have a leader now that has PROVED he can do what the people want, except for the ignorant Dim-Sheep. Support the Office of the Presidency and help it grow America and more importantly shape America into a country of educated, logical, common sense people. I wish I had the endurance to write a book and do a purge of the "indoctrinators" replacing them with "educators". Do realize the path America is on? Sure we can continue to only grow the economy, solve immigration to follow the law, improve the foreign relations (trade, funding, military support, etc.), cut out unnecessary costs (decrease regulations, taxes, etc.) and everything this sitting president is doing for years now with PROVEN success. But, we still have the clueless. Its like allowing the prisoners bidding to run the jail! Some one must be in control who won't let that happen. I thank President Trump for stepping up to the plate and the voters for signing the contract. Let's do it again and add OVERALL reform of things discussed above begin. Unless I see firm plans to continue the positive programs Trump has initiated and performed AND to address the Overall reform above, my vote is already cast. Since I am an independent, and that is NOT a political party Independent, my vote is cast.
I couldn't resit this video Big Don sent to me this afternoon by a friend.
Can you believe yesterday at the proceedings Adam Shiff said even he did not know the identity of the whistleblower! Well then, who does? How did he learn enough "details" to light the fire? Why didn't the Republicans ask this? Why didn't they ask how he was informed -- who, letter, email, etc. -- and pursue getting that person subpoenaed or an physical documents read in? It is We the People's right to ensure the Constitution is followed to ensure the accused lawyers can properly question the credibility and motives of the accuser. This can be done partially without knowing the identity. How can Adam Shiff determine sufficient credibility to initiate this witch hunt. Doe being a whistleblower mean ANYONE can write an anonymous letter about anybody and be ensured such a sham is initiated? You talk about corruption! This is treason for organizing a coup to attack the highest office in America without any proof. His only proof is the dirt he stirs up and the mixing or statements the way that benefits the Dims.
I repeat:
1. Who is the whistleblower?
2. Doe Shiff or doesn't Shiff know who he is?
3. Did Shiff converse with the actual whistlebower?
4. If not, who did and who is feeding the crap to him and why isn't he subpoenaed?
5. Are there any physical documents of the claim? Why were't they entered and available to the public?
I certainly don't know the circumstances at the moment of the call to the Ukraine President. Trump claims there was a previous call and that transcript will be made public which has bearing on his comments to the Ukraine President on the call in question. I can see where, in the timeline, funds for aide was held up BEFORE the call for reasons of suspected corruption. Do the Dims expect to get the answer to that question and freezing of funds before the call? Like Congress acts so fast! The House is such pathetically run government entity!
So the previous paragraph address the holding of funds and the expected duration of that hold to investigate corruption and more particularly the credibility of the new Ukraine President. Sounds logical to me! Sounds CORRECT to me!
If the suspected corruption (fact for many years) persists and did persist in 2018 too (fact), and the company where Hunter Biden was "specially" placed on its boar was being investigated for corruption (fact), and Hunter obliged during the rein of V.P. Biden who should have been obligated to performing independently from him, and the Ukraine investigation was TOLD to stop strangely just when the Biden's were involved at the same time in the Ukraine, wasn't it appropriate to ask the Ukraine President to investigate? Maybe Trump shouldn't have used the name "Biden" and should have instead tip-toed around using the name and explained the possible corruption by sticking only to the investigated company's name, but Trump at the spur of the moment wanted to explain the time frame of interest and did mention the name. Maybe a BAD for him because of that. BUT, that is NOT a reason for Shiff and cronies to shout IMPEACHMENT! How childless, or should I say CORRUPT!
We the People ARE smarter! It's again time for the ignorant to educate themselves GOOD for the country, OUR AMERICA, and what and who is out to DESTROY it. I am so tired of the two party system. I am so tired of the kids under 21 who THINK they are grown up, but continue to show their ignorance in living in an adult world. Socialism comes to mind -- Socialism, a word they can't even define!). I'm tired of the SHEEP Herds where nobody thinks himself or herself any more because it is easier to just follow someone else. I could write a large book with the nonsense We the People have to wade through because of the sheep! We need independent thinkers to support OUR needs and desires. We DON"T have it in Congress. So sad. America needs to wake up! We have a leader now that has PROVED he can do what the people want, except for the ignorant Dim-Sheep. Support the Office of the Presidency and help it grow America and more importantly shape America into a country of educated, logical, common sense people. I wish I had the endurance to write a book and do a purge of the "indoctrinators" replacing them with "educators". Do realize the path America is on? Sure we can continue to only grow the economy, solve immigration to follow the law, improve the foreign relations (trade, funding, military support, etc.), cut out unnecessary costs (decrease regulations, taxes, etc.) and everything this sitting president is doing for years now with PROVEN success. But, we still have the clueless. Its like allowing the prisoners bidding to run the jail! Some one must be in control who won't let that happen. I thank President Trump for stepping up to the plate and the voters for signing the contract. Let's do it again and add OVERALL reform of things discussed above begin. Unless I see firm plans to continue the positive programs Trump has initiated and performed AND to address the Overall reform above, my vote is already cast. Since I am an independent, and that is NOT a political party Independent, my vote is cast.
I couldn't resit this video Big Don sent to me this afternoon by a friend.
Wednesday, November 13, 2019
920. GE Refrigerator/Freezer Noise Part II: Post 911 Continuance
Part II: Part I was Post 911 and it introduced the problem I am having with my new refrigerator. As of today, NOTHING has been resolved and additional unexplained symptoms continue. This is an update.
On a positive note, Della , a case manager, responded almost immediately to me to interface with GE engineers to look into this problem. On the negative side, She too is NOT getting a response back from any engineer despite continuing emails to her and then to them detailing more attempts to reduce the noise and control the temperatures. Following is a summary:
Problems:
1. Noise as reported and presented in Post 911 continues at the same pace
2. Temperature settings were increased 2 degrees for both the freezer and the refrigerator section, now set at 2 degrees and 39 degrees. NO change to the actual temperature readings than before. Still the freeze mainly stays at -10 degrees and the refrigerator between 31 (bottom shelf) and 35 degrees (top shelf). Just what are the settings supposed to control?
At this point I am more concerned about the temperatures and believe they are related to the noise, here's why. To cool to these temperatures and almost keep them there as I am seeing, the refrigerator MUST be overworking the cooling system. The damper is the part of the whole refrigerator that allows the freezer to move cool air to the refrigerator part. Question, why IS it cooling to the recorded temperatures and never above them when set to 39 degrees? After sending cool air to the refrigerator, or at the same time, the freezer's cooling system must turn on to keep the freezer at it's setting since the freezer just exchanged air to the refrigerator! Thus, the freezer cooling system (i.e., compressor turning on and coolant flowing through the coils/tubes) must be overworking. Now, where does the noise come in? The first repair service technician replicated the noise by turning on a function via his diagnostic tools and forced the damper (the exchange mechanism between freezer and refrigerator air) to make the damper operate. So, conclusively, the noise IS the damper. We assumed it was the door. And the Internet is flooded with people having the same or similar noise, some individuals posting the noise on YouTube, who were told by "shop" and "Parts" experts that the damper need to be replaced.
If I have to write another post about this issue with GE, all the emails I sent will appear in it. Let it suffice to say the issue has just about hit the you-know-what-fan and if I don't get a satisfactory response by end of week I will be seeking an executive to communicate with. So, stay tuned.
-----------------
Update 11/14/2019: The GE case manager will be scheduling another work order to REPLACE the damper AND to check a list of other things. Here is what the GE engineer said to her:
*************************
If you read this you will conclude that when you change a SETTING for the freezer from 0 to +2 it has NOTHING to do with the temperature you desire in the freezer. That is a +2 does NOT mean maintain it at +2 degrees. Instead it only means that you aren't getting the right sub-zero desired temperature you want and if you set it higher it ONLY makes the compressor RUN LONGER to get it cooler. It also states that a HIGHER setting will result in BOTH fridge and freezer to be colder as it is in my unit. Unless I am completely reading this wrong, the freezer SETTING works contrary to thought and should instead be labeled COMPRESSOR RUN TIME. Please pass this by your engineer if you would and direct me as to how I should use the settings. I am resetting the freezer back to 0 (from +2 ... thought this was a desired temperature and assumed the compressor would run LESS to maintain it when the article above indicates its just the opposite and it will run LONGER) and fridge to37 from 39. I am beginning to feel the electronic settings are meaningless to adjust and quite possibly it will run like the factory wants it to run regardless -- i.e., the temperatures I am seeing! If this is the case, then the temps are normal and the settings are confusing and maybe useless.
I'd be interested in what your engineer has to say. If he agrees with my assessment, we may only be addressing the noise problem. Except, I still want to know if I ONLY change the Fridge setting upward, should I see the actual temperatures rise in the Fridge section, or not?
--------------------------------------------
On a positive note, Della , a case manager, responded almost immediately to me to interface with GE engineers to look into this problem. On the negative side, She too is NOT getting a response back from any engineer despite continuing emails to her and then to them detailing more attempts to reduce the noise and control the temperatures. Following is a summary:
Problems:
1. Noise as reported and presented in Post 911 continues at the same pace
2. Temperature settings were increased 2 degrees for both the freezer and the refrigerator section, now set at 2 degrees and 39 degrees. NO change to the actual temperature readings than before. Still the freeze mainly stays at -10 degrees and the refrigerator between 31 (bottom shelf) and 35 degrees (top shelf). Just what are the settings supposed to control?
At this point I am more concerned about the temperatures and believe they are related to the noise, here's why. To cool to these temperatures and almost keep them there as I am seeing, the refrigerator MUST be overworking the cooling system. The damper is the part of the whole refrigerator that allows the freezer to move cool air to the refrigerator part. Question, why IS it cooling to the recorded temperatures and never above them when set to 39 degrees? After sending cool air to the refrigerator, or at the same time, the freezer's cooling system must turn on to keep the freezer at it's setting since the freezer just exchanged air to the refrigerator! Thus, the freezer cooling system (i.e., compressor turning on and coolant flowing through the coils/tubes) must be overworking. Now, where does the noise come in? The first repair service technician replicated the noise by turning on a function via his diagnostic tools and forced the damper (the exchange mechanism between freezer and refrigerator air) to make the damper operate. So, conclusively, the noise IS the damper. We assumed it was the door. And the Internet is flooded with people having the same or similar noise, some individuals posting the noise on YouTube, who were told by "shop" and "Parts" experts that the damper need to be replaced.
If I have to write another post about this issue with GE, all the emails I sent will appear in it. Let it suffice to say the issue has just about hit the you-know-what-fan and if I don't get a satisfactory response by end of week I will be seeking an executive to communicate with. So, stay tuned.
-----------------
Update 11/14/2019: The GE case manager will be scheduling another work order to REPLACE the damper AND to check a list of other things. Here is what the GE engineer said to her:
Rich,
Encouraging
news, I heard back from the
engineer. He apologized, he has
been traveling and has limited
access to respond to emails.
First,
he wasn't able to listen to your
sound clip from your blog. It
may be the international
connections that has blocked his
ability to open it. He said he
will continue to try, once he is
back, and thinks that he should
be able to open it then.
As
for the temperature issue, he
asked if the damper had been
changed. This is a strong
recommendation.
The
noise issue is a little more
complicated. It could possibly
be that the gas is not expanding
or contracting on time (gas
noise), this creates vibration
which is reflected on the
capilar tubes on the evaporator.
He recommended removing the
evaporator cover and detect the
possible affected areas and
placing mastic on it. He said if
none of this resolves the issue,
we may need to replace the
refrigerant.
I
would be happy to arrange a work
order and send these
instructions to the technician.
Would you like me to make these
arrangements?
Thank you for choosing GE
Appliances, a Haier Company!
--------------
--------------
My response in short: Schedule it to replace damper and address ALL temperature control issues, correct operation of settings as a target, operation to maintain temperatures at the target, other areas in engineer's response.
---------------
Update: 11/14/2019: I must say my Case Manager is most responsive to by requests. Big PLUS for GE. Several parts in anticipation of needing them are on their way and service call should be by next Friday. I like GE's concern for the individual. The plan is to attack the least invasive part repairs first and monitor before ripping major parts out to replace. Sounds logical. The Samsson Appliance Repair was the first technician out here. I feel confident with his abilities.
----------------
I found this on the GE website re temperature controls:---------------
Update: 11/14/2019: I must say my Case Manager is most responsive to by requests. Big PLUS for GE. Several parts in anticipation of needing them are on their way and service call should be by next Friday. I like GE's concern for the individual. The plan is to attack the least invasive part repairs first and monitor before ripping major parts out to replace. Sounds logical. The Samsson Appliance Repair was the first technician out here. I feel confident with his abilities.
----------------
*************************
BOTTOM FREEZER:
- Fresh-Food Controls: The freezer supplies cold air to both compartments. Cold air is circulated from the freezer to the fresh food compartment via a damper. The fresh food control regulates the damper between the two compartments by controlling the amount of cold air that flows into the fresh food compartment.
- Freezer Controls: The higher the setting, the longer the compressor runs and as a result the colder both sections become. The freezer setting determines the compressor and freezer fan running times.
- On models where you press
Fridge or Freezer to adjust the temperature (doesn't have
separate up and down arrows), the temperature adjustment only
goes one direction. When you keep pressing the Fridge or Freezer
pad, the temperature setting will go up until it reaches the
maximum limit and then starts over at the lowest limit.
If you read this you will conclude that when you change a SETTING for the freezer from 0 to +2 it has NOTHING to do with the temperature you desire in the freezer. That is a +2 does NOT mean maintain it at +2 degrees. Instead it only means that you aren't getting the right sub-zero desired temperature you want and if you set it higher it ONLY makes the compressor RUN LONGER to get it cooler. It also states that a HIGHER setting will result in BOTH fridge and freezer to be colder as it is in my unit. Unless I am completely reading this wrong, the freezer SETTING works contrary to thought and should instead be labeled COMPRESSOR RUN TIME. Please pass this by your engineer if you would and direct me as to how I should use the settings. I am resetting the freezer back to 0 (from +2 ... thought this was a desired temperature and assumed the compressor would run LESS to maintain it when the article above indicates its just the opposite and it will run LONGER) and fridge to37 from 39. I am beginning to feel the electronic settings are meaningless to adjust and quite possibly it will run like the factory wants it to run regardless -- i.e., the temperatures I am seeing! If this is the case, then the temps are normal and the settings are confusing and maybe useless.
I'd be interested in what your engineer has to say. If he agrees with my assessment, we may only be addressing the noise problem. Except, I still want to know if I ONLY change the Fridge setting upward, should I see the actual temperatures rise in the Fridge section, or not?
--------------------------------------------
Update 11/16/2919: I sent the following to GE re the article above:
The article at https://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-support-search-content?contentId=19217
from which I copied the excerpt is NOT correct. I set the freezer
temperature DOWN (LOWER) and found the compressor running this
morning and temperature way down to -16 degrees. So the controls
work just the OPPOSITE to what this article says. I believe the
following should correct it:
From: Freezer Controls:
The higher the setting, the longer the compressor runs and
as a result the colder both sections become. The freezer setting
determines the compressor and freezer fan running times.
To: Freezer Controls: The
lower the setting, the longer the compressor runs and as a
result the colder both sections become. The freezer setting
determines the compressor and freezer fan running times.
That's my conclusion. What say
you? Sounds like this instruction came from PRE-electronic
controls where setting a knob higher for the freeze would probably
do as the current article states. This is NOT what happens with
electronic setting.
----------------------------
Update 11/30/2019: As we close out November, I am sitting with 6 parts and awaiting the repairman. I looked at the parts and will posting some pictures of the Kindergarten project to construct the Refrigerator Air Tower Assembly (WR17X12456). I can see the engineers must have recognized a noisy damper within it. An "afterthought" seems to encase the plastic damper with noisy door inside two Styrofoam halves taped together by masking tape. Then cutout sponge seals were attached to that where the freezer opening and refrigerator openings are. These sponge seals aren't seals produced based on size, but instead cutouts of pieces glued around the edges of the hole to approximate complete a fully covered seal. Except, it looks like kindergarten kids got to cut out pieces and glue them around! Am I shocked to see this type of work? No. I expected it to be cheaply constructed, but not look like this. Stay tuned for the pictures. I am waiting to add them because the repairman was going to look at the door operation of the existing damper while still installed. Actually, that will be impossible give the the way this new one is stuck together! Hopefully I'll get scheduled early this coming week. Now that I see the plastic door on the damper and most likely a gear mechanism I can imagine the knocking. However, the double and triple occurrence of the knocking with 5-10 seconds apart puzzles me. If it is the door, what is it doing? Opening and immediately closing (2 occurrences)? And why is the door doing this?
-----------------------------------------
Pictures of INCORRECT new tower assembly with correct damper enclosed within:
------------------
See Part III (post 925) for Unsatisfactory Resolution!
----------------------------
Update 11/30/2019: As we close out November, I am sitting with 6 parts and awaiting the repairman. I looked at the parts and will posting some pictures of the Kindergarten project to construct the Refrigerator Air Tower Assembly (WR17X12456). I can see the engineers must have recognized a noisy damper within it. An "afterthought" seems to encase the plastic damper with noisy door inside two Styrofoam halves taped together by masking tape. Then cutout sponge seals were attached to that where the freezer opening and refrigerator openings are. These sponge seals aren't seals produced based on size, but instead cutouts of pieces glued around the edges of the hole to approximate complete a fully covered seal. Except, it looks like kindergarten kids got to cut out pieces and glue them around! Am I shocked to see this type of work? No. I expected it to be cheaply constructed, but not look like this. Stay tuned for the pictures. I am waiting to add them because the repairman was going to look at the door operation of the existing damper while still installed. Actually, that will be impossible give the the way this new one is stuck together! Hopefully I'll get scheduled early this coming week. Now that I see the plastic door on the damper and most likely a gear mechanism I can imagine the knocking. However, the double and triple occurrence of the knocking with 5-10 seconds apart puzzles me. If it is the door, what is it doing? Opening and immediately closing (2 occurrences)? And why is the door doing this?
-----------------------------------------
Pictures of INCORRECT new tower assembly with correct damper enclosed within:
See Part III (post 925) for Unsatisfactory Resolution!
Saturday, November 9, 2019
919. Suddenlink - THE WORSE SERVICE
So what's my beef with Suddenlink this time? Somewhat the same as the last 2-3 months. Ever since they changed there website software the Payment System does not work! What specifically Well, you can't PAY online, you can't set up EZ PAY (automatic payments from a Credit Card), you can't change the expiration date on existing credit card (thus, EZ PAY won't work at all), you can't REMOVE the existing Credit Card as a Method of Payment, you can't add a new credit card as a Method of Payment).
So, what is Customer Service doing for me? NOTHING! They only have the knowledge and capability to record a problem. How about CHAT? NOTHING. They are even worse and have no access to billing information. As usual, my wait time to speak to someone was over 40 minutes until the first customer service rep answered. 25 minutes for a CHAT person. I have spend literally several MAN DAYS (1 Man Day = 24 hours) with the same problem both on my account and mother-in-laws account. Still no fix for over 2.5-3 MONTHS! Guess they don't care if the customer can't pay! Right!
Resolution: Like always they tell you to run down to the Local Store. This means hop in you car and drive a few miles, then wait 20-30 minutes in their queue, only to get a person who also has no access to billing/EZ Pay options to fix the automatic payment. Yes, they will accept payment MANUALLY! So, looks like we need to MANUALLY pay both my account and M-I-L's account. Oh how wonderful Suddenlink is!
I NEVER experienced such BAD service ever for any service!!! Same BAD service or worse is their TECHNICAL service. If only I had another choice in Amarillo for this speed Internet, even at twice the cost.
Who ever heard of a company that did NOT provide a Feedback email or online service? Or an address for a snail mail to file a complaint? Or an email to report a problem? PLEASE some company come into Amarillo and offer something to REPLACE SUDDENLINK!
So, what is Customer Service doing for me? NOTHING! They only have the knowledge and capability to record a problem. How about CHAT? NOTHING. They are even worse and have no access to billing information. As usual, my wait time to speak to someone was over 40 minutes until the first customer service rep answered. 25 minutes for a CHAT person. I have spend literally several MAN DAYS (1 Man Day = 24 hours) with the same problem both on my account and mother-in-laws account. Still no fix for over 2.5-3 MONTHS! Guess they don't care if the customer can't pay! Right!
Resolution: Like always they tell you to run down to the Local Store. This means hop in you car and drive a few miles, then wait 20-30 minutes in their queue, only to get a person who also has no access to billing/EZ Pay options to fix the automatic payment. Yes, they will accept payment MANUALLY! So, looks like we need to MANUALLY pay both my account and M-I-L's account. Oh how wonderful Suddenlink is!
I NEVER experienced such BAD service ever for any service!!! Same BAD service or worse is their TECHNICAL service. If only I had another choice in Amarillo for this speed Internet, even at twice the cost.
Who ever heard of a company that did NOT provide a Feedback email or online service? Or an address for a snail mail to file a complaint? Or an email to report a problem? PLEASE some company come into Amarillo and offer something to REPLACE SUDDENLINK!
918. Switch from Microsoft Login to Local Login
Noting is ever simply documented. All I wanted to do is switch from a Microsoft Login to Local Login on my PC. Why? Because you cannot get into SAFE mode if you are using a Microsoft Login. MUST have Local Login. So, "Simply" switch to one. Right!!!
Using Start>Settings to select Use Local Login instead of Microsoft Login was easily found. Going through the process hung me up. If I remember correctly, it first asks you for the current login (I used a PIN for Microsoft Login account. It liked that. But then it again asked for the old password so it could continue. Well, WHICH password should I try? Original Local Login password I originally set up? HELLO password? Tried them all and always got the INCORRECT PASSWORD error! I read about password resets and thought I was doomed to try that. But first I thought about it and thought maybe it wanted my Microsoft User password, the one I set up with Microsoft. That was it! Now, why didn't they just tell me that was the one they wanted? After using that it further wanted to verify me and spit out a screen with a partially masked email it wanted to send a code to. Yet, it didn't send it. You have to click the message showing the masked email first! Then it asks you again to type in the email. This had me confused since my Microsoft account is set up for a different email. Now, which one did it want. Well, of course, NOT the one which I used to set it up, but the alternate one that they masked in previous screens. Phew! Made it. Got my code and though I was done. I was done setting it up, but when I signed out, actually LOCKed up, I was presented a signin screen that wanted my PIN again (i.e., the Microsoft Login PIN). It did give me "signin options" under that where I could select the Key icon and use the new Local Login password (actually, I believe this was my HELLO password ... another element in the password scheme). It worked, so, I tried to LOCK out again and login. Same screen asking for PIN instead along with Signin Options. I didn't want to go through this double login thing every time! One more try. This time ONLY the Local Login screen came up requiring the new password I assigned. Go figure. It's done now. Hopefully this post will be useful to others wanting to switch to Local Login from Microsoft Login.
Using Start>Settings to select Use Local Login instead of Microsoft Login was easily found. Going through the process hung me up. If I remember correctly, it first asks you for the current login (I used a PIN for Microsoft Login account. It liked that. But then it again asked for the old password so it could continue. Well, WHICH password should I try? Original Local Login password I originally set up? HELLO password? Tried them all and always got the INCORRECT PASSWORD error! I read about password resets and thought I was doomed to try that. But first I thought about it and thought maybe it wanted my Microsoft User password, the one I set up with Microsoft. That was it! Now, why didn't they just tell me that was the one they wanted? After using that it further wanted to verify me and spit out a screen with a partially masked email it wanted to send a code to. Yet, it didn't send it. You have to click the message showing the masked email first! Then it asks you again to type in the email. This had me confused since my Microsoft account is set up for a different email. Now, which one did it want. Well, of course, NOT the one which I used to set it up, but the alternate one that they masked in previous screens. Phew! Made it. Got my code and though I was done. I was done setting it up, but when I signed out, actually LOCKed up, I was presented a signin screen that wanted my PIN again (i.e., the Microsoft Login PIN). It did give me "signin options" under that where I could select the Key icon and use the new Local Login password (actually, I believe this was my HELLO password ... another element in the password scheme). It worked, so, I tried to LOCK out again and login. Same screen asking for PIN instead along with Signin Options. I didn't want to go through this double login thing every time! One more try. This time ONLY the Local Login screen came up requiring the new password I assigned. Go figure. It's done now. Hopefully this post will be useful to others wanting to switch to Local Login from Microsoft Login.
Thursday, November 7, 2019
917. The Media Sucks ... so do the groups controlling it
Catchy title, but true. If you don't realize this, go to my post in category MEDIA and you'll see posts back to 2012 re FAKE news and misleading We the People. You'll also see their crusade with the liberals to demoralize the conservatives and particularly Trump even when he just became a candidate for Presidency. I was going to stay out of politics and the Media, but how can you escape the nonsense going on these days? Trump is right that the Dems have been out to get him and have a full plan to do so starting BEFORE he became president. It took no more than an hour after he won the election to show their lunacy, childishness, and ignorance by actually beginning the nonsense and continue it up to this moment.
Like the Trump-Russian collaboration, which was thrown back in their face, the Impeachment Inquiry (ha-ha) they started in their clubhouse of dimwits compares to a spoiled child who'll cry just to get attention. But in this case, it is far worse. The lying and evilness is killing this country. Major divisions are taking place between the educated free minded, common sense people and the bully liberals who would attack their own mothers if they rode the other train. The brats include the youngsters who can't even define Socialism, yet want to support the "let mommy take care of us" movement -- disgusting. WHO educates these kids other than the institutions who INDOCTRINATE them in anti-American, anti-capitalistic thoughts? Parents? Or are they too busy too to take the time to digest facts versus the lies the Media spits out? Every time I call for service, technical or not, I am reminded that we no longer have thinkers, but indoctrinated followers. When is the last time you spoke to someone who had to follow a script!
Now you have idiots who want to allow 16 year-old kids age 16 to vote! OBlunder passed a health law forcing insurance companies to carry children on their policies until they were 26. Remember? They were cited as too young to act on their own beyond the age they could enlist in the military (the responsible ones were there)! I can't imagine, based on what I was like at 16, ever having the knowledge and experience to vote for the President of the United States. I would venture to say I was in the 99th percentile of those 16 year-old teens who had NO interest in politics and, instead, focused on sports, hanging out, and the opposite sex. Please tell me I am wrong with an honest face!
How can one not understand that Health Care for all is NOT FREE? It would be exponentially worse than Medicare alone and that is NOT FREE now youngsters. I and my wife pay an average $300+/month and we are savvy insurance shoppers! You probably aren't going to find someone else paying out much less, except of course the ones lying to geton Welfare. Did you know Medicare ONLY pays 80%? Did you know ALL Medicare recipients must pay for it via Part B? Did you know if you want 100% coverage you have to stay healthy and fall within the added insurance you can get for the missing 20% through Supplemental Insurance that you pay for? Did you know that even the supplemental insurance has restriction for total out-of-pocket expenses? Do you know you are FORCED to buy Prescription Drug insurance? Fortunately, we have the absolutely lowest out-of-pocket plan. Most people, my wife's 92-year old mother spend HUNDREDS more per month. Gee, if we were her age we could easily be paying $500-600 per month instead of $300! Wow, that's an entire pay check kiddos! Dream on re FREE Health Care for ALL.
Do you realize how much more the government would need to provide to run an equal system like Medicate with 3x more individuals? It isn't simple linear math (if you know what that means). And, did you know that for the last several years doctors have been dropping out of taking on more Medicate patients because they can't afford (both financially and time) to take more? Imagine 3x more individuals going to a bank to withdraw money. The lines would be staggeringly longer, or, the bank would have to hire an inordinate number of tellers to handle every body. Tellers are not Doctors who spend 8-10 year of education and practice before hanging the certified sign out! Banks can't even afford to do it! Why? Physically their isn't enough space (like a doctor's visiting room) without having to spend capital to make a bigger bank. Hmmm, who would they charge for this cost. Let me think. Well me, and you, via fees and charges. Then how long would it take of the pain and frustration of standing in waiting queues? Think about whether an existing doctor would even consider building a bigger facility OR simply be satisfied with clients he has which already provide him/her a comfortable life. Then consider the additional number of doctors needed to support 3x the volume of patients. Let's increase that to 6x the number of visits since there will most likely be those who will take advantage of "free (ha-ha)" care and go as soon as they hiccup. Simple queuing theory (look it up kiddos) clearly rules out the mass migration to FREE Health Care. We have already gone from scheduling an appointment just a week out to now the next available time being 3 weeks out. Imagine every person in America with a cough scheduling an appointment. What will that mean for those with serious ailments? Never see a functioning system that comes close to the way things are today.
Okay. I'm done ranting. Glad to get some of the frustration re the Media and their crony leaders and political pundits who all are in the business of destroying America in the air. Too bad, few will have the ambition to take this at heart and will continue only reading the headlines and lies directed at them to get them to board the cattle cars going to the slaughter house. My wife and I are beyond the influence of the bad apples even it they take over. However, we are dedicated to grow America and believe in the Constitution and laws and will fight and support them. If only their be the passing of some test to rule out the ignorant and prevent them from voting in someone who wants to hand America over to someone else. Thank you Mr. Trump!
Like the Trump-Russian collaboration, which was thrown back in their face, the Impeachment Inquiry (ha-ha) they started in their clubhouse of dimwits compares to a spoiled child who'll cry just to get attention. But in this case, it is far worse. The lying and evilness is killing this country. Major divisions are taking place between the educated free minded, common sense people and the bully liberals who would attack their own mothers if they rode the other train. The brats include the youngsters who can't even define Socialism, yet want to support the "let mommy take care of us" movement -- disgusting. WHO educates these kids other than the institutions who INDOCTRINATE them in anti-American, anti-capitalistic thoughts? Parents? Or are they too busy too to take the time to digest facts versus the lies the Media spits out? Every time I call for service, technical or not, I am reminded that we no longer have thinkers, but indoctrinated followers. When is the last time you spoke to someone who had to follow a script!
Now you have idiots who want to allow 16 year-old kids age 16 to vote! OBlunder passed a health law forcing insurance companies to carry children on their policies until they were 26. Remember? They were cited as too young to act on their own beyond the age they could enlist in the military (the responsible ones were there)! I can't imagine, based on what I was like at 16, ever having the knowledge and experience to vote for the President of the United States. I would venture to say I was in the 99th percentile of those 16 year-old teens who had NO interest in politics and, instead, focused on sports, hanging out, and the opposite sex. Please tell me I am wrong with an honest face!
How can one not understand that Health Care for all is NOT FREE? It would be exponentially worse than Medicare alone and that is NOT FREE now youngsters. I and my wife pay an average $300+/month and we are savvy insurance shoppers! You probably aren't going to find someone else paying out much less, except of course the ones lying to geton Welfare. Did you know Medicare ONLY pays 80%? Did you know ALL Medicare recipients must pay for it via Part B? Did you know if you want 100% coverage you have to stay healthy and fall within the added insurance you can get for the missing 20% through Supplemental Insurance that you pay for? Did you know that even the supplemental insurance has restriction for total out-of-pocket expenses? Do you know you are FORCED to buy Prescription Drug insurance? Fortunately, we have the absolutely lowest out-of-pocket plan. Most people, my wife's 92-year old mother spend HUNDREDS more per month. Gee, if we were her age we could easily be paying $500-600 per month instead of $300! Wow, that's an entire pay check kiddos! Dream on re FREE Health Care for ALL.
Do you realize how much more the government would need to provide to run an equal system like Medicate with 3x more individuals? It isn't simple linear math (if you know what that means). And, did you know that for the last several years doctors have been dropping out of taking on more Medicate patients because they can't afford (both financially and time) to take more? Imagine 3x more individuals going to a bank to withdraw money. The lines would be staggeringly longer, or, the bank would have to hire an inordinate number of tellers to handle every body. Tellers are not Doctors who spend 8-10 year of education and practice before hanging the certified sign out! Banks can't even afford to do it! Why? Physically their isn't enough space (like a doctor's visiting room) without having to spend capital to make a bigger bank. Hmmm, who would they charge for this cost. Let me think. Well me, and you, via fees and charges. Then how long would it take of the pain and frustration of standing in waiting queues? Think about whether an existing doctor would even consider building a bigger facility OR simply be satisfied with clients he has which already provide him/her a comfortable life. Then consider the additional number of doctors needed to support 3x the volume of patients. Let's increase that to 6x the number of visits since there will most likely be those who will take advantage of "free (ha-ha)" care and go as soon as they hiccup. Simple queuing theory (look it up kiddos) clearly rules out the mass migration to FREE Health Care. We have already gone from scheduling an appointment just a week out to now the next available time being 3 weeks out. Imagine every person in America with a cough scheduling an appointment. What will that mean for those with serious ailments? Never see a functioning system that comes close to the way things are today.
Okay. I'm done ranting. Glad to get some of the frustration re the Media and their crony leaders and political pundits who all are in the business of destroying America in the air. Too bad, few will have the ambition to take this at heart and will continue only reading the headlines and lies directed at them to get them to board the cattle cars going to the slaughter house. My wife and I are beyond the influence of the bad apples even it they take over. However, we are dedicated to grow America and believe in the Constitution and laws and will fight and support them. If only their be the passing of some test to rule out the ignorant and prevent them from voting in someone who wants to hand America over to someone else. Thank you Mr. Trump!
Wednesday, November 6, 2019
916. RootsMagic File>Backup uses wrong folder
RootsMagic (RM) is the software I decided to use instead of ponying up to Incline for its next version of AQ16. I hit a problem today in that despite having the default folder for backups set (Tools>Program Options>Folder) when I did a manual backup within my session by doing FILE>Backup, RM used IT'S default of the "....documents" file instead of the folder and path I had defined and set up as the fault. Let me say that if RM is just closed, the correct (MINE) folder is used. Problem was that RM did NOT use the default I set up because it was too long! That's right. It ignore it and used IT'S default instead.
Jason at Technical Support via chat connected to my system and debugged it to learn this length sensitivity. The workaround was simply trim the path's name about characters. Great job Jason.
This problem was definitely not a show stopper, yet the response and fix was excellent by RootsMagic Technical Support on Chat duty. I am also amazed that instead of trolling though Help documents to learn answers to other things that were different between RM and AQ15, simply doing an Internet search found all of them! I really like this service. Plus, the product has just as much or more than AQ15 did. I think I'm a long-term customer in just 2 days of playing around. My entire database is current (imports from AQ15) and interface to FamilySearch.org seamless. Running at a 5 Stars Rating at the moment.
Jason at Technical Support via chat connected to my system and debugged it to learn this length sensitivity. The workaround was simply trim the path's name about characters. Great job Jason.
This problem was definitely not a show stopper, yet the response and fix was excellent by RootsMagic Technical Support on Chat duty. I am also amazed that instead of trolling though Help documents to learn answers to other things that were different between RM and AQ15, simply doing an Internet search found all of them! I really like this service. Plus, the product has just as much or more than AQ15 did. I think I'm a long-term customer in just 2 days of playing around. My entire database is current (imports from AQ15) and interface to FamilySearch.org seamless. Running at a 5 Stars Rating at the moment.
Tuesday, November 5, 2019
915. Ancestral Quest (AQ15) & FamilySearch 404 Errors
Beginning a couple of days ago, AQ15 (v15.0.18 or 15.0.19) could no longer communicate with FamilySearch.org without getting Error 404 for many functions. This is obviously HTTP related. I tried 2 different systems, both W10 (different versions), Chrome (2 different versions) and 2 different AQ15 versions as stated above. 404 Error occurs consistently on both systems.
My guess is that AQ15 's HTTP code is backlevel to FamilySearch's current installation! AQ came out a few weeks ago noting that AQ16 for a new registration key fee would be availableThey also stated though that AQ15 could be continued to be used for those not requiring the new function. Well, they forgot about the underlying HTTP protocol to FamilySearch that is obviously now different!
Every time I submit a problem request to AQ it goes without a response. Likewise for these problems, in addition to a 406 Error. So, goodbye AQ! Today I downloaded RootsMagic and have no problem communicating to FamilySearch. I believe it is the same price or less than AQ16. So far, it is much faster, easier, and nicer interface. I'll report on it later.
----------------------------------
Update 11/5/19 - I'll take the blame for this! As stated above AQ splashed a News update at startup. Seldom are these of any value, but I remember it as in second paragraph. Today AQ said to go to NEWS under Help. I had grown tired of the splash news and turned it off after that last news item. Didn't know how to get it back to read it. Learned how and the news was a full page long and specifically stated that the API piece was changing to support new Family Search, but only in AQ16 which would now cost me another registration fee. More specifically, the news stated that SYNCing to FamilySearch would no longer work. Yes -- 404 Errors. Had they only HIGHLIGHTED that up near the top in a concise statement such as "AQ15 will NOT function (Sync) with FamilySearch after November 4, 2019 ... you need to pay the Piper and get AQ16" nobody would miss it!. But, I'll take the blame for wanting to get to my research QUICKLY and not have to read news on a start up pop up that comes out very infrequently! Live and learn.
As far as RootsMagic: It is set up quite differently and I am still tripping over things to learn it enough to speed through my research. here are things I like and things I don't. Maybe I'll just have to take the bullet and go to AQ16. Maybe not. Just that I've used AQ for many years and can fly around it. Tune back later for more comments.
My guess is that AQ15 's HTTP code is backlevel to FamilySearch's current installation! AQ came out a few weeks ago noting that AQ16 for a new registration key fee would be availableThey also stated though that AQ15 could be continued to be used for those not requiring the new function. Well, they forgot about the underlying HTTP protocol to FamilySearch that is obviously now different!
Every time I submit a problem request to AQ it goes without a response. Likewise for these problems, in addition to a 406 Error. So, goodbye AQ! Today I downloaded RootsMagic and have no problem communicating to FamilySearch. I believe it is the same price or less than AQ16. So far, it is much faster, easier, and nicer interface. I'll report on it later.
----------------------------------
Update 11/5/19 - I'll take the blame for this! As stated above AQ splashed a News update at startup. Seldom are these of any value, but I remember it as in second paragraph. Today AQ said to go to NEWS under Help. I had grown tired of the splash news and turned it off after that last news item. Didn't know how to get it back to read it. Learned how and the news was a full page long and specifically stated that the API piece was changing to support new Family Search, but only in AQ16 which would now cost me another registration fee. More specifically, the news stated that SYNCing to FamilySearch would no longer work. Yes -- 404 Errors. Had they only HIGHLIGHTED that up near the top in a concise statement such as "AQ15 will NOT function (Sync) with FamilySearch after November 4, 2019 ... you need to pay the Piper and get AQ16" nobody would miss it!. But, I'll take the blame for wanting to get to my research QUICKLY and not have to read news on a start up pop up that comes out very infrequently! Live and learn.
As far as RootsMagic: It is set up quite differently and I am still tripping over things to learn it enough to speed through my research. here are things I like and things I don't. Maybe I'll just have to take the bullet and go to AQ16. Maybe not. Just that I've used AQ for many years and can fly around it. Tune back later for more comments.
Sunday, November 3, 2019
914. "VanOps: The Lost Power" byAvanti Centrae - 3 Stars
VanOps: The Lost Power byAvanti Centrae - 3
Stars
Publisher: BooksGoSocial
ISBN: 9781644371961
This is a fast-paced action novel.
Obviously, a lot of research went into its creation. There is extensive
historical background, detailed setting descriptions, and more than I cared to
know about aikido. However, I found the plot often illogical, contrived, and
hard to believe. I realize that action fiction involves some suspending of
belief, but this was over the top for me. The characters stumble on signs and secret
societies that have been around for many centuries just waiting to be found by
two distant descendants of Spain
Reviewer: Nancy
Saturday, November 2, 2019
913. "Dark Hollows" by Steve Frech - 5 Stars
Dark Hollows by Steve Frech - 5
Stars
Publisher: HQ Digital
ISBN: 9780008368227
Dark Hollows is an enjoyable
mystery set in the fall in a quaint New England
town. The setting and characters are beautifully described. Staying in Jason’s
guest house, having coffee in the village coffee shop, and meeting Murphy, the
friendliest dog ever, would make the perfect fall vacation.
The plot is somewhat spooky and
interestingly complex. It is a nice length. I read it in a fairly short time.
The ending was abrupt. At first, I was annoyed that there wasn’t an epilogue or
something to tell me more. Then I thought about it and decided it was uniquely
perfect. It made me think about what I would have done if I were Jason. It
would be a great book to share with friends and to spark a discussion about
Jason’s decision and events that led up to it.
Reviewer: Nancy
Friday, November 1, 2019
912. Dropbox Usage - What a breeze
So, I needed to get a sound byte of a noisy refrigerator somewhere somewhere out on the Internet so repair service could listen to it. Forget You Tube! I had a .MP3 file and the instructions for upload were impossible to understand, requiring a picture to go along with it yada-yada. I also used OneDrive in past and this wasn't the most friendly interface either. So I looked at Dropbox and was pleasantly surprised. A simple download and the PC application was available and a folder called DROPBOX put on my PC. Copy the file into it and almost done since they remain private until the net step. SHARE it via the PC app or getting on to Dropbox.com. Just select the file, hit the Share button, and EITHER give the email (s) of people to share it with OR just get a LINK to it on the now cloud that can be inserted into anything. In my case, my web blog in the middle of my text. DONE! Talk about EASY! Thanks you DrobBox.
911. GE Refrigerator/Freezer Noise Part I.
Part I : So we get an additional refrigerator and move the older 20-year old side-by-side to the garage. That Kenmore is still perfect with no problems ever, but it was stuffed in a space next to a wall that restricted opening the freezer door. The new refrigerator is a bottom freezer and single swinging door for the food storage. A step up. Or not? The GDE25ESKGRSS was a real bargain and couldn't be passed up -- not many choices of bottom freezers. Below is the review which includes an noise issue worth reading about:
Pros: Relatively quiet except for low volume periodic noise (discussed below). Definitely keeps everything cold or frozen as expected. So much volume we can't keep it more than 50-60% full even with the garden harvests that crammed our old box. Love the LED lighting and door shelves that accommodate gallon size containers. We find the size of the door shelves also allow partitioning smaller items on the smaller shelf and medium sized on the center shelf and large items, like half-gallon items on bottom door shelf. The vegetable and fruit bins are larger than the previous refrigerator because the depth of the box is longer and they function much better. Prompt service call dispatching via phone or Internet site.
Cons: Only the strange woodpecker noise periodically of 8-10 knocks. We had two service calls in. Thus, the only information I could gleam was from the service repairman. Being under warranty that is fine.
The knocking noise: Listen to it!
May be faint to you, but this is the 8-10 knock pattern that happened up to 9 times per hour that can be heard up to 50 feet away while I'm sitting in the family room in my recliner enjoying a book. We can even hear it while the TV is on. So what's the story?
The first technician repairman came out, listened to the 5 recordings I had made, and immediately said it sounds like the damper. The duplicate it, he entered a few diagnostic codes on the refrigerator it invoke function that would require the damper to react. Bingo. He could duplicate it. I was all ready to have a replacement damper installed when he said that was a NORMAL sound and left with that being the result of the call.
I immediately went to the Internet and searched for GE damper noise. Scores of hits and even sound bites as above. Each incident was reported as faulty damper door and a part was given to order and replace it. I'll have to go back to the sites now and see if any follow up comments were posted as to whether a new damper fixed the noise.
Instead, I scheduled another repairman for a second opinion. This guy, from a different service ASSUMED it was the refrigerant in the coils that make the noise and did NO diagnostics. Yet, he charged GE over $300! The first guy suggested installing thermometers. So, I asked the second guy what the expected range is for the refrigerator and freezer given the settings of 0 degrees and 37 degrees. His answer, there isn't any given range (interpretation-I don't have a clue if there is one). Given that answer I asked isn't it a problem when the refrigerator food section falls to 30-31 degrees? Or the freezer drops to -12 degrees when set to 0? More spin! So he left doing NOTHING!
Thus, I remain withe disturbing noise. If I may add, the pattern could occur 3 times with just 5-7 seconds in between, up to 35 minutes. The first repairman guessed at NORMAL sound when he probably meant COMMON sound. The second repairman isn't close since the first guy proved it was the damper by invoking the damper action! If only GE would have some technician or a feedback procedure to report this.
Option 3: Bought this at Lowes and they have a request for service analysis for manufacturer defects which I believe I have. That will be next call. In the meantime, I raised the refrigerator temperature to 39 in hopes the damper which is a device that exchanges freezer air into refrigerator to cool it when it needs cooling. My hypothesis is this may reduce the number of times the damper is put into action.
I have other hypotheses re the damper construction which neither repairman knew except that it has a door the opens and closes as necessary. My belief (not fact) is that this door and damper are PLASTIC and the door is driven by plastic gears that make this noise. Whether they are supposed to be quiet, who knows? But, I can picture just a minor misalignment or loose part that could cause this noise! It will be investigated by going back to the various Internet site for answers. Stay tuned.
Worse case is that we will just become accustomed to the noise the same way we are with an ice make dropping ice or water gushing to in a dishwasher and life will continue. If anybody has a clue, what this noise is, don't hesitate responding. Thanks.
-------------------
Update: Please see post 920 for Part II (current status and actions) and Post 925 for Part III and Fix.
Pros: Relatively quiet except for low volume periodic noise (discussed below). Definitely keeps everything cold or frozen as expected. So much volume we can't keep it more than 50-60% full even with the garden harvests that crammed our old box. Love the LED lighting and door shelves that accommodate gallon size containers. We find the size of the door shelves also allow partitioning smaller items on the smaller shelf and medium sized on the center shelf and large items, like half-gallon items on bottom door shelf. The vegetable and fruit bins are larger than the previous refrigerator because the depth of the box is longer and they function much better. Prompt service call dispatching via phone or Internet site.
Cons: Only the strange woodpecker noise periodically of 8-10 knocks. We had two service calls in. Thus, the only information I could gleam was from the service repairman. Being under warranty that is fine.
The knocking noise: Listen to it!
May be faint to you, but this is the 8-10 knock pattern that happened up to 9 times per hour that can be heard up to 50 feet away while I'm sitting in the family room in my recliner enjoying a book. We can even hear it while the TV is on. So what's the story?
The first technician repairman came out, listened to the 5 recordings I had made, and immediately said it sounds like the damper. The duplicate it, he entered a few diagnostic codes on the refrigerator it invoke function that would require the damper to react. Bingo. He could duplicate it. I was all ready to have a replacement damper installed when he said that was a NORMAL sound and left with that being the result of the call.
I immediately went to the Internet and searched for GE damper noise. Scores of hits and even sound bites as above. Each incident was reported as faulty damper door and a part was given to order and replace it. I'll have to go back to the sites now and see if any follow up comments were posted as to whether a new damper fixed the noise.
Instead, I scheduled another repairman for a second opinion. This guy, from a different service ASSUMED it was the refrigerant in the coils that make the noise and did NO diagnostics. Yet, he charged GE over $300! The first guy suggested installing thermometers. So, I asked the second guy what the expected range is for the refrigerator and freezer given the settings of 0 degrees and 37 degrees. His answer, there isn't any given range (interpretation-I don't have a clue if there is one). Given that answer I asked isn't it a problem when the refrigerator food section falls to 30-31 degrees? Or the freezer drops to -12 degrees when set to 0? More spin! So he left doing NOTHING!
Thus, I remain withe disturbing noise. If I may add, the pattern could occur 3 times with just 5-7 seconds in between, up to 35 minutes. The first repairman guessed at NORMAL sound when he probably meant COMMON sound. The second repairman isn't close since the first guy proved it was the damper by invoking the damper action! If only GE would have some technician or a feedback procedure to report this.
Option 3: Bought this at Lowes and they have a request for service analysis for manufacturer defects which I believe I have. That will be next call. In the meantime, I raised the refrigerator temperature to 39 in hopes the damper which is a device that exchanges freezer air into refrigerator to cool it when it needs cooling. My hypothesis is this may reduce the number of times the damper is put into action.
I have other hypotheses re the damper construction which neither repairman knew except that it has a door the opens and closes as necessary. My belief (not fact) is that this door and damper are PLASTIC and the door is driven by plastic gears that make this noise. Whether they are supposed to be quiet, who knows? But, I can picture just a minor misalignment or loose part that could cause this noise! It will be investigated by going back to the various Internet site for answers. Stay tuned.
Worse case is that we will just become accustomed to the noise the same way we are with an ice make dropping ice or water gushing to in a dishwasher and life will continue. If anybody has a clue, what this noise is, don't hesitate responding. Thanks.
-------------------
Update: Please see post 920 for Part II (current status and actions) and Post 925 for Part III and Fix.
Thursday, October 31, 2019
910. "Fake Truth" by Lee Goldburg -- 5 Stars
Fake Truth by Lee Goldburg -- 5 Stars
Publisher: Thomas & Mercer
ISBN: 9781542014694
Fake Truth was fun to read. It is
the third in the Ian Ludlow series. There is sufficient background information
included so that it can be read as a stand-alone novel, but I enjoyed it more having
read the first two books.
The characters are wonderful. Ian
is a writer of action novels who finds himself in real life situations that
rival those of his fictional hero. The plot is certainly timely. There are
countries that are trying to disrupt our democratic way of life and the
situation at our southern border is a mess. It is nearly impossible to sort out
the truth in the constant news and commentary we hear 24 hours a day. Poking
fun at it all was delightful.
I thank Lee Goldburg for a
believable and original novel about Ian Ludlow and his friends who once again
save the United States from a disastrous international crisis. I’ll be the first
in line for book number four to learn what new adventure they can find themselves
in the center of.
Reviewer: Nancy
908. Thinderbird Draft Message not saved - Error
After reinstalling Thinderbird, the method to save drafts reverted to the ISP address instead of a local file and my ISP didn't like that. So, to fix the issue, go to Thunderbird and create a Local Folder called DRAFTS or some more specific name related to the account if you wish (I only created one and use it for all accounts). Now highlight the account you want changed and go to Tools>Account Settings>Copies and Folders for the account you need to correct>Scroll down to Drafts and Templates. In "Keep Draft Messages in" select "Other",select Local Folders, select the DRAFTS folder you created.
Wednesday, October 30, 2019
907. "The Institute" by Stephen King – 4 Stars
The Institute by Stephen King – 4 Stars
Publisher: Scribner
The probability of a secret
Institute as in this book existing and for as many years as it did without
being known, along with the atrocities that occurred at the Institute are
unimaginable, except for Stephen King of course. The story will be memorable:
painful recalling the cruelty to the kids, rewarding that they were given the
powers of unbelievable levels of telekinesis and telepathy that made them the
victors, sad that so many of the kids were killed. Those sensitive to the any negative
implications in the previous statement might want to avoid this book. Also,
those who are just as tired as I am with hearing about King’s politics should
also avoid reading this or, like me, just accept the fact that he obvious lives
reality like his fantasies and his Leftist comments just show his ignorance of
reality. A good way to throw 51% of the potential sales in the trash!
That being said, the story is
captivating and the characters, as usual in his books, were well developed and
perfectly utilized to garner the images and emotions he wanted to project – fear,
evil, concern. I would say he made some recovery in his writings since the last
several very disappointing novels; kudos for that. But a lengthy book invites
lulls and reduces the enjoyment. I was a fan and would like to get back on the
Stephen King bus. Sorry, can’t do it when idiotic fake-news politics infiltrated
well-written prose. I’m leaving a star at his door in hopes it works like the
sparkler in this story and allows him to focus on the story alone.
Reviewer: Rich
Tuesday, October 29, 2019
906. New WONDERFUL Lenovo S340-15API w/W10 Home v1903
Once again I am providing an example of an installation of a PC fresh from the store that has Microsoft Windows 10 Home version 1903 installed. Thus, this is setup and customization to set up personal applications and data. General comments: Lenovo machine is fantastic. Unlike problems on Dell install in 2017 (see post #787) that had both a CD hardware problem and a fan that was tremendously noisy and ran most of the time, this solid state storage machine is totally quiet! I have never noticed the fan even running. The installation/Setup/Customization below was done by the second day thanks to the previous example installation (Post # 784). This Microsoft Windows 10 version 1893 had one problem pertaining to Start Menu Icons not being able to be fixed where you want them in addition to deleting some on it own which was fixed by subsequent Windows Updates. So, keep installing updates until there aren't any more before trying ti build Start Menu ICONS. A second problem is again a Windows problem that will not accept your Microsoft Account Login password when trying to get into SAFE mode. You MUST use Local Login instead! I have both Local and Microsoft Account logins setup, but am using Local one now. This version of Windows also, finally, killed the installation of old 2003 Office installation - you will get SOURCE corrupted after entering your Key! An alternative (I paid $27 is documented below). If your are setting up a new PC with preinstalled software OR going to Windows 10 version 1903, this example might help you:
Battery : Integrated 52.5Wh
Lenovo S340-15API 81NC001AUS Installation October 28, 2019 (Lenovo2019)
\\PCName
Installation and Configuration:
1. Note the new Lenovo S340
support info:
a. Processor: Lenovo S340-15API
b. Model: 81NC001AUS
c. Machine Type: 81NC
d. Serial Number: ########
e. Phone #:
-----------------------------------------------------
2. Attach power cable, insert
wireless mouse unit into front USB and power on. Up comes Cortana with the
setup dialog to follow.
------- Begin Lenovo’s Setup of hardware and O/S. Steps below are from
Dell install.
3. When asked for logon
credentials by Microsoft’s popup asking for its account ID and password,
do NOT use it. Instead create a Local Logon with your desired UAC name.
Notes said to continue with MSFT login and later change to Local Login –
instructions given. Briefly to set local Signin: Settings>Your
Info>Select Sign In with local account instead. Microsoft Signin now has a
PIN that can be set and used instead of remembering a complicated password of
the Microsoft Account kept by Microsoft. SAFE MODE Signin will NOT work with
a Microst Siginin Setup! Thus, either always use a Local Signin or be aware that
you need to switch to Local to use Safe Mode IF you can get to normal mode and
change it!
4. Cortana Setup … Cortana is a waste.
Dumb it down later by disabling it as follows: RegEdit HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE >
Software > Policies > Microsoft > Windows. Now, setup a Key (there already or create one) called
AllowCortana equal to DWORD32 = 0. If you want to again enable Cortana, set it
to 1. Note: Cortana task cannot be disabled permanently and will still pop up
under active tasks.
5. Onedrive … Follow instruction to set
up Onedrive. I use it to share files with wife on 2nd PC. Note: DROPBOX can
be set up later if desired.
6. McAfee … Will not use this 1-year
trial, so do NOT setup and remove later. When removed later via Control Panel,
it took a while AND tells you to RESTART to finish job. I also downloaded a
Mcafee Removal Tool since I though it was hung up because last Restart dialog
became hidden under other open windows.
7. Network: Lenovo setup dialog creates working network definitions and immediately
you can connect to Internet via our router SSID=xxxxx. The wireless network adapter installed in the
Lenovo is a Qualcomm Atheros QCA9377 Wireless Network Adapter. We will
try this AC adapter instead of Trendnet that will remain in Dell \\xxxx PC
------ Initial setup should
be done
8. Chrome:
a. Download from Google
website.
b.
You then login with Google Account to sync devices and grab existing
bookmarks, passwords, add-ons etc. used on old PC.
c.
Later after File Explorer directories are set up to mirror old PC you
want to change Chrome’s default Download pointer by Settings > Advanced >
Downloads to c:\users\xxxxx\My Downloads).
9.
Check Windows version and grab updates. Do
Start>Cmd>Select it>Enter WINVER (it turned out Windows 10 version
1903). Updates are checked via Start>Settings ICON>Update and Security>Check
Updates. Install any. (NOTE: NO fan issues like Dell!)
10. Syncback Free:
a. Get from site and install
This is used to backup/recover personal data to Flash Drives
b. Export Tasks from old pc
Syncback App and Import to this new PC’s Syncback App.
11. Set up directory tree
same as on old PC along with Quick Access.
a.
Get the current Backup Flash Drive created from old PC with
all personal data. It will need be copied to the folder c:\Users\xxxxx\MyData. But, first create the MyData folder via File Explorer (traverse
from This PC>C : [at bottom]>Users>txxxxx [assigned by Lenovo
setup]. When you are at this folder right-click and create NEW FOLDER
called MyData.
b.
Now you are ready to copy old files on Flash Drive to New Lenovo. Put
flash into back right USB port and bring up Syncback.
c.
But first create a task in Syncback to copy from the flash to Mydata if
not already present. Source should be drive id where flash inserted (probably D:)
and Target should be c:\Users\teob6\MyData. Select the MIRROR function and then
run the task.
12. CCleaner : download and install
latest FREE version
13. Speccy: Download and install
14. Thunderbird: This is Email Agent used.
Download and install.
a. Set up Local Folders by
copying them from old PC. On that PC in Thunderbird do Help > Troubleshooting
> Open Profile Folder to get their location. Now, open File Explorer and go
to the location > Open Mail > Local Folders and copy the files to flash
drive. On new PC, repeat the steps until you get to Local Files subdirectory in
File Explorer and copy Flash Drive
b. Set up email accounts using
EXISTING email addresses. STOP! When you set up the Yahoo Account, do NOT let
it setup imap. Instead change to POP3. Also, check the Local Directory (Server
Settings) ; it should NOT be the address used in old PC. Browse to find the pop
mail which should be in c:users\xxxxx\Appdata\Roaming\Thunderbird\Profiles\insert-default-profile-here\Mail\pop.mail.yahoo.com
c. Get old Address Book: On old
PC consolidate Address Books as desired into your Personal Address Book. Now, Insert
flash into old PC, bring up Thunderbird, go to Tools Export, select your
Personal Address Book ONLY, and EXPORT LDIF to Flash Drive. Now on new
PC insert flash and Tools IMPORT the .Ldif file. Edit the Address Book and name
it My Personal Address Book.
15. Create RECOVERY Repair Disk
and save system files. START > RECOVERY. Put a large (16GB was ok) flash
drive into USB port. Also determine how to rebuild the Lenovo system if need
to. Do I need to make an Image or does Lenovo, like Dell, have the initial
system somewhere? This will take quite a while so let it proceed and do
other work following.
16. Note and document the entire
\\xxxxxxxx
Configuration using Speccy
output:
Product: Lenovo
ideaPad S340-15API
Model: 81NC001AUS
Machine Type: 81NC
Processor: AMD Ryzan 5 3500U (4C/8T, 2.1-3.8GHz, 2MB L2
+ 4MB L3)
Memory: 8GB (4 GB Soldered + 4GB DIMM DDR4-2400)
SSD: 256GB SSD M.2 2242 PCIe NVMe
CPU Name: xxxxxxxx
User Name: xxxxx (both UAC and User file)
O/S: Windows 10, Creator Version, 1903
BIOS: Put Specs
Here
Chipset: AMD SoC Platform
Graphics: Integrated AMD Radeon Vega 8 Graphics
Display: 15.6” FHD (1920x1080) TN 220 nits Anti-glare
Media Reader: 4-in-1
WLAN+Bluetooth: 11ac, 1x1 + BT4.2
Ethernet: NONE … could get USB adapter for under $19
Camera: 720p
Power Adapter: 65W Round Tip
Cores: 4 with 8 Threads
Performance: Max qualified Speed = 2.1 GHz, Max Turbo
Boost = 3.7 GHz
Cache: 2MB L2 +
4MB L3
Audio:
USB: 2- 3.1, 1- type C
17.
Lenovo VANTAGE Diagnostics: This is put on
Start Menu and is window into Lenovo Support with links and diagnostics and
update features.
18.
Remove McAfee
and ensure Windows Defender comes active. Use Control Panel>Uninstall
Programs to remove it. It takes a while and requires Restart to finish the job.
Windows Defender (firewall and antivirus) should have ICON in bottom notification
area. If not permanently there, hit the “caret” symbol in the area and drag the
Defender ICO onto the task bar notification Icon displays.
19. Fidelity ATP: Download from website and
install.
20. AxCrypt: Install by running 1.7.28930-x64-en-us-beta.msi
in \Mydata\My PC Configuration\System Tools &
Software\Axcrypt Install Files. The KEEPTIMESTAMP reg hack must be redone
to keep timestamp equal to underlying file. Get this from same folder. EDIT the
file to see what to set in registry. Bring up Regedit and set the key as
indicated in the hack file.
21. AnyPassword: \Mydata\My PC
Configuration\System Tools & Software\ Anypassword Install & PWFile
contains the installation tasks:
a. Run Install_apwp.exe with
3/19/12 date to install the correct version.
b. Copy latest password database
(C:\Users\Rich\MyData\My PC Configuration\System Tools & Software\Any
Password Install & PWFile\PWS2016.APW) from old PC into same directory on
new Lenovo.
c. You will need Key, so run AnyPasswordProkey.reg
in same folder. It will be xxxxx.
d. Start it up and specify the password data set
copied over in b. above. (PWS2016.APW).
22. Everything: Download and install. I
believe it was from VOID something or other .
23. Office 2003: It’s dead and won’t
install. So, I found a Microsoft Office Pro 2019 replacement for $27.00 which
includes WORD, Excel, Powerpoint, Publisher, etc. Everything needed. See
OFFICE2019 in AnyPassword for details of purchase. Upon purchase product
downloads and provides the KEY, so let it rip. Test it by selecting appropriate
files (previously encrypted with .axx extension). File with decrypt and invoke
the proper program. Program comes up in “compatibility” mode for my old PC files.
Maybe because the .doc and .xls extension are old generated.
24. Brother Printer (DCP-L2540DW Series) files
for installation should already be on new system under \MyData\My PC
Configuration\Hardware\Brother DCP-L2540DW Printer folder::
a. Run (if necessary) DCP-L2540DW-inst-C1-US_DRIVER.EXE
b. Bring up CC4 app and change
default libraries for scanned files to go to the Desktop.
c. Run CC4 updater CC4Updater_4_6_21_1.exe
d. Utilities: These came in via
the Driver run in a. above.
25. Cute PDF: Download from site BOTH
Cute PDF. It will also download Prereq GhostScript Converter and install.
26. Window Title Colors: Go to Settings >
Personalize > Colors and then select the set light red
27. Display Theme. Find Yosemite file and run
it.
28. Ancestral Quest 15. Download from searched
site and got Key from old PC to enter. Copy old Ancestry Stuff on Desktop of
old PC to new location
29. Add UAC Picture:
Search and go ahead and update. I picked tiger.
30.
Customize Start ICONs. This
was a disaster. Icons wouldn’t set where I wanted them and deleted themselves! Later Windows updates seem resolved this. So, keep doing check updates .
31. BIOS: As soon as RESTART is hit
or turning on, BEFORE Lenovo Logon screen comes up, QUICKLY and hold F2 key
down. Alternate method after the system is up is to go to START>Settings>Update
& Recovery>Revocery>Restart Now>Troubleshoot>Advanced Options>AEFI
Firmware>Restart.
32. Set up File Network sharing: Network Sharing
This is mostly set up for W10 machines
on your local network. To see the devices, which include PCs, on your network:
1.
File Explorer>Network should list the PCs and their names
2.
Select a name of a network PC other than the one you are on and
expand to see “users” and then folders/files you have access to.
If for some reason “Network” does not
show the network devices, it is probably because Network Discovery is off. In
this case, right-click Network>Properties>Change Advanced Sharing Settings
to turn it on. Also look at “File and Printer Sharing” and turn it on . Other
options available here also to limit sharing ability but I did not explore
them.
33. SAFE Mode: Hold Shift and do Restart AND
keep holding Shift until menu comes up for Troubleshooting, Select Windows
Startup Settings and select Safe Mode. Signin REQUIRES Local Account Signin. If
you set up to use Microsoft Signin then you need to switch to Local. I
recommend always using a local one, but for Microsoft, set up a pin in addition
to the complicated password you set up.
34. Create subdirectory under \Onedrive\
for wife’s documents to share with other PC
However, I do need to copy
periodically her files into this new folder on my PC.
35. Install Advanced IP scanner
2.5. Give me IP, MAC, Device name
36. Download ACDSEE for
Pentax. This is obsolete. Install FastStone Image Viewer from Internet instead
(this is FREEWARE)
38. Install OLD Windows 7
Microsoft Card Games - Win7GamesForWin10-Setup.exe can be retrieved from https://www.groovypost.com/howto/install-windows-7-classic-games-windows-10/
39. Install Malwarebytes
from site
40. Note Lenovo Tips for this PC:
a. To set High Resolution
Display mode right-click Desktop>Select Display Settings
b. Switch Camera Privacy
shutter to cover camera if you want to ensure privacy (top middle of display).
c. Backlight Keyboard – toggle by
hitting Fn + Space Bar
d. When power is on, you can
switch between power modes Quiet, Intelligent, and Performance by doing Fn+Q
e. With power off you can
determine battery status by hitting any CAPS key.
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